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WHAT I HEARD IN EUROPE 

DUllIXf; THI-: 

'• AMKRK \\ EXCITKMKNT ;" 

[i-Li'STiJATixcr Till-: DiKFKUKNcr; i!i:t\vi;i:n' 
i;o V i; iJXM KXT and peoplk abroad 

I\ THinil IIOSTIMTY AND GuOD WISIIKS TO THE 
PERPETIITY OF 

TIIK CrliKAT RKI'l'l'.LlC. 



K Y J H N II . T n I T 'J' 



N K W V I{ K : 

HKNRY M. TOHITT. 1 IHANKr.lN .SQUAUK 

186a. 



y^k'^ 



PREFACE. 



O.N one of the hottest days in August, 1861, I rocoivcvl 
a letter from a brother residing in London, even more 
than ordinarily affectionate, and intimating that tlu iiicroasing 
infirmities of age would probably prevent iiim from further 
correspondence. At the time of its arrival, I haj)[icncd 
i~yself to be in unusual despondency and lunolincs.'*, and 
business in general having just received tlic di.scnidaiit 
jar of " Bull Run," believe I shared in the developing 
apprehension of impending national calamity. 

As the pleasure 1 had derived from so many ycar.>s' 
epistolary intercourse with my Brother scciudI now 
about to terminate, a sudden impulse again to visit him, 
took possession of me. Thus might I hope to repay in :t 
measure my Brother's affection — relax my own over-tax .mI 
energies from a twenty-four years' .servitude — and, far above 
an 1 b:yond all, avert my eyes and ears from the fralri^i- 



PREFACE. 

dal conflict which had just begun to sadden the most prosper- 
ous nation on earth. Mentioning to such friends as I met 
that I was going abroad, twenty-three letters of introduc- 
tion were tendered me — and thus auspiciously did I commence 
my journey. 

— I am an Amer-ican ; "intensely American," as I was 
once described. And yet, while not a native, far more than 
many adopted citizens, I may claim to be a confirmed Ameri- 
can ; and feel prouder of belonging to this class than either of 
the former. I was brought to this country in childhood — and 
as soon as I had acquired a trade, and earned sufficient money, 
went over to England with boyish curiosity to see my half- 
forgotten relatives, and " prospecting " for the best track 
in which to undertake " the voyage of life." I was thus 
^^ enabled early to choose my country — and I speedily returned 
to New York with a proud sense of independence, and impa- 
tience to arrive at the age of citizenship. Good health and 
industrious habits have had but their ordinary sequence here 
in rewarding me with business — home — and reputation. How 
can it be expected, then, that I should feel otherwise than 
grateful, and " intensely American " against all who have been 
gloaiing over the prospective dismemberment of this Great 
EeT)iib'ic. 



PREFACE. 9 

Therefore, while I went abroad intending lo enjoy myself 
in the quietest and most private manner' imaginable, it was 
entirely impossible for one so impulsive to keep silent in the 
hearing of the incredible calumnies which were current during 
" the American Excitement." It was also because I neither 
went as a fashionable tourist, a public character, nor a fugi- ^ 
tive, but as thousands go every year from the ranks of middle 
life, that I enjoyed the freedom to speak as I did. 

Since my return, I have witnessed with no little concern 
the chanfje in American sentiment toward Eno;land. It would 
exasperate a far less excitable people than ourselves to expe- 
rience such " neutrality " as has been the main comfort ami 
hope of our enemies ; but knowing how heartily tlic millions 
despise the diplomatic hypocrisy of their rulers, I believe 
a brief narrative of what I heard would be more appropri- 
ate at this time than a volume of mere " sis^ht-seeinfrs." ' 

xVs the prospect brightens that our family ((uarrcl may yet 
terminate without embroiliui? us with other nations, I think 
it every one's duty to contribute his share to so desirable a 
result. And as what I remember saying in behalf of my 
country while abroad is the pi'oudest treasure of my memory, 
so now that I am home again do I exult in thus tcstifj'- 



10 



PREFACE. 



ing to the fidtlity of those whom neither sophistry nor ship- 
building profits can blind to the fact that our temporary 
troubles are but the presage of our Land becoming, iu fact 

as well as name, a "Model Republic." 

J. H. T. 

New Yoi;k. January. 1864. 



CONTENTS. 



CPIAFTER I. e 

An Atlantic Voyage — liiverpool — Conversation in the 

Cars to Birmingham 15 

CHAPTER II. 

Birmingham — A Model Landlord and Employer— The 
" Union " — Discussion on the " American 
Question,^' &c 21 

CHAPTER III. 
Shropshire — Ludlow Castle — A Modern Herculaneum 

— What a Wine Merchant said 26 

CHAPTER lY. 

Arrival in London — Omnibus Conversation — " Good 

News from Home " 36 

CHAPTER V. 

Letters of Introduction — West End Dinners — Degrad- 
ation of Business Men 39 



12 CONTENTS. 

PiOB 

CHAPTER YI. 

English Gentility—" Woodbine Cottage"— Pride and 

Poverty , ^4 

CHAPTER VH. 

Lecture on America— The War— Election of Lincoln— 

" The Anecdote of the Telegraph Office 51 

CHAPTER YHI. 
London Gin Palaces— Black Meat— Rosemary Lane. . 58 

CHAPTER IX. 

Visit to a Workhouse— The Pancras " Casuals" 61 



68 



CHAPTER X. 

London in the days of " Burking " 

CHAPTER XI. 
Departure for the North 72 

CHAPTER XII. 
Sheffield— Leeds — Derby — Newcastle— Edinburgh- 
Good News from Home 80 

CHAPTER XHI. 
Ireland ..<........•.... 83 



CONTENTS. 13 

CHAPTER XIY. 

Bristol — Bigoted Clergyman — Return to London 88 

CHAPTER XV. 

Departure for the Continent — Dieppe — Rouen 90 

CHAPTER XYI. 
Paris 95 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Kent the Garden of England — Rifle Volunteers — A 

" 'Squire " Answered 103 

CHAPTER XVm. 
The Ballot — Railroad Experiences and Opinion Ill 

CHAPTER XIX. 
London Again 118 



14 CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XX. 

PACK 

What I Heard in a Coal Mine 123 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Excitement at ^Liverpool — Embarkinent under Difficul- 
ties 130 



C II A P T E li I . 
o 

AN ATr.ANTIC VOYAGE LIVERPOOL CONVKUSATlOX 

IX THE CARS TO BIRMINGHAM. 



An Athuitic voj'age is now such a coniinuii experience, 
that to describe one in h hook \\liere condensation and 
not expansion is the key-note, woukl he entirely super- 
fluous. I therefore dismiss this part of u\y recollections, 
bj alluding only to the advantage this fourth crossing of 
mine presented to its predecessors. My first bondage tu 
Neptune lasted seventy-seven days ; my second voyage 
thirty -five ; and my last only twenty-one days, I was 
now but ten days in performing the same distance — and 
as many men live to double my present age, perhaps 
my next trip will be projiortionably cnrtailed. 

AVe landed at Liverpool about noon on Sunday, Se])t. 
1, 1S61. As I stepped ashore, I noticed the opera-bills 
of "La Somnambula,'' on the very walls I remembered 
on my first visit to that city twenty-four years ago. The 
youthful New Yoi-ker who i/ioi was so tormented witli 
beggar-girls, was now allowed a wider berth, and my 



16 WHAT I HEARD 

tliree coinp<uiions accoinpaiiied me to tlie Georgo Hotel ;, 
where after waiting— I won't say how long — we were 
allowed to sit down to "joints." 

" What will you have to drink V a&hed the waiter, as 
he fancied my friend from Vermont appeared in search of 
a liquid. 

" Water," replied the Down Easter. 

'■^ Wafer / ! !^' ejaculated the grave attendant — aiid he 
threw into the expression quite as many notes of exclam- 
ation as are iiere printed. 

There was no mistaking the contempt with which such 
a taste was regarded by onr English auxiliary. 

In our afternoon stroll, we passed a street-preacher's 
crowd — and almost the lirsl Avords I heard were " /<as in 
/^Adam Aall die," etc. I should hardly think, such a tri- 
fling cruelty to poor II wortli recording, but as subse- 
quently I was frequently commended as an American 
who spoke " /iexcellent /^English," I failed to appreciate 
the force of tlie compliment. 

Having no inclination to describe the sights of Liver- 
pool, I pi'oceed at once to record my notes of what I 
heard. It must not be inferred, however, that I was in- 
diiierent to this enjoyment, or that I tailed to visit such 
objects as endow any locality with celebrit}^ On the 
contrary I imagine they yielded me as much pleasure as 
they could to any one; and even long before I reached 
the Rhine, my admiration was sufficiently aroused to 



IN EUROPE. 17 

do justice to the most enthusiastic tourist. But this be- 
ing purely personal, the public have no cnncern in it. 

On the third day, while waiting in the rail-car for Bir- 
mingham, noticing some stone cutters at work, I inquired 
their daily wages. 

'' About four shillinirs. But why do you ask ?"' 

''To compare them with the wages where I come 
from." 

" Ah ! — and where may that be V 

" Well, America is my country." 

" Oh ho!" said one on the opposite seat. " But ar'nt 
they lucky chaps they never went to Xew York, where 
you know tlie mechanics are now wandering the streets, 
and begging bread." 

As he said this, his eyes glistened with a merry twin- 
kle as he saw our companions leaning forward to listen 
to the conversation. 

"Indeed! Where did you get such information as 
that ?" 

" O now, it's no use denying it ; we know all about it, 

and now you are yourself safe in England, you may as 

well own your republican government's gone to smash." 

"But do you know anything about the Xew Yorkers 

whom you seem so much to pity ?" 

"Thank God I've only one relative there, and he's at 
Plttsburfjh ; but come now, tell us about the war, and 
how you feel after Bull Run." 



18 WHAT 1 HEARD 

" Isot till I enlighten you a trifle in regard to the rep- 
utation and condition of my dear old friend, the busy 
Oity of Xew York. "It is just a fortnight this very day 
since I left her shores. And as for some thirty years I 
have intimately associated with her citizens, and among 
her mechanics ' acted many parts,' from errand-boy to 
■employer, claim to knoio something about them. And 
now let me tell yon, my friend, that the mechanics of 
that place are 7ioi idle wanderers — far less are they beg- 
ging bread. The fact is, the great majority are now- 
earning double what you say yonder men are getting — 
and in the adjacent cit}- of Williamsburgli, where my 
■own family reside, nearly half the population live in 
their own houses. One of the Savings Banks there has 
received from the surplus earnings of the men who work 
across the river near three millions of dollars during the 
past ten years. This I know of my own knowledge ; and I 
read the other day that the deposits in the ISTew York 
Savings Eanks exceeded in amount that of the entire ag- 
gregate in Great Britain ten years since. Do you 
know how much money is annnally remitted from Ame- 
rica to Eno;land to assist such luckv chains as those yon- 
der to a land which has not only ' bread and woik for 
all,' but where education is free, and a man is generally 
treated according to his talents and behavior rather than 
the ' gentility ' of his connections ? But as 1 am now on- 
ly a visiter, I do not wish to intrude my opinions." 



IN EUROPE. 1 

"Go on — go on!" — " Well done for a Yankee!" and 
similar expressions, soon convinced me that I was really 
an " object of interest" to my fellow passengers. And 
now I enjoyed m}' first gi-atefiil experience of the only 
reconciling palliative for England's amusing dogmatism 
— her indisputable love of " fair play." Ko sooner was 
the first sneer about Bull Run heard by the company, 
than I felt sure that some of them would gladly see its 
author brought up with a round turn. 

An animated conversation ensued ; and as we were 
listened to attentively, 1 was not at all reluctant to enjoy 
my fullest shai-e. One gentleman said he rather liked 
the Americans, but regretted we were so full of ' bounce* 
— even now we were threatening to unite our forces aid 
attack France and England. 

" AYe have too many relatives among you for England 
to give you the ' polishing off' yon so richly deserve, but 
■we should like to see some other Power — Eussia, for in- 
stance — take you in hand, and cure you of filibustering." 

Eefore I could properly thank my friend for his 
good M'ishes, another added bluntly — 

"You're not an American I" 

" IIow do you know ?" 

" You neither chew tobacco nor s}»cak thi-ough your 
nose." 

"Nor have I ever touched a bowie-knife, or whi])ped 
a slave, you might have added to my divergence from 



20 WHAT I HEARD 

tlie standard your countrymen seem to entertain of their 
American cousins." 

I noticed one gentleman in particular who seemed to- 
enjoy more than tlie rest the repartees wliich good luck 
enabled me to bestow upon my would-be tormentors,, 
though he uttered not a woi-d. lie now handed me his 
card, remarking — 

" I have listened with great interest, and should be- 
happy for my neighbors to experience the pleasure I 
have enjoyed in hearing you. Will you favor us with 
a visit ?" 

Being neither a preacher, lecturei', nor uther public 
cliaracter, of course I declined ; but the cordiality with 
which he grasped my hand, and the pleasure which 
beamed on his countenance, convinced me of his sincer- 
itj. I put away his card without particular notice,, 
but on the next day found it M-as given me b}' "Rev. 
, of Ivector3\" 

As the passengers rose from their scats, they crovrded 
around me to shake hands. Two of them hoped 1 did 
not feel angry at the freedom of their remarks. I could 
not help laughing outright at so great an absurdity, for 
I had a strong impression that tliey had the greatest 
cause for soreness in this little episode of free discussion. 

— And nov\- I stepped on to the platform at Birming 
hau). 



CHAPTER II. 

BIRM[XGIIAM A MODEL LANDLORD AND EMPLOYKII 

THE " UNION " DISCUSSION ON THE AMERICAN 

QUESTION, ETC. 

I can hardly imagine a more fortunate combination of 
circumstances, to both entertain and instruct ine, tlian 
awaited me in the good hick of tarrying wliile in I5ii- 

mlnjjham at the S C Inn. 

Here I found not only tlie ordinary liotel a}>i)hance?, 
but enjoyed in addition to the quiet and comfort of a 
private house, the personal attentions of the family as well 
as the host himself, whose gifts and callings were numer- 
ous enough to qualify him for a genuine Yankee. Known 
])rominentl3' as an Engineer, his inventions were i:enc- 
rally familiar to mechanics; while as an employer, who 
enjoyed, I might perhaps say the love of his workmen. 
lie had jreneral access to the various industrial hives ><• 
numerous in this dense city. He belonged to that i.ia; 
class who continue to feel interest in the welfare o\' \\\^ 
fellows instead of subsiding into the j»a-^sive enjoyiDi-nt 



22 WHAT I HEARD 

of his own accumulations. His reputation as tlie 
jovial landlord of a very popular inn, was no less owing 
to liis own irrepressible sociality, than to the numerous 
mechanical and scientific entertainments he was in tlie 
habit of giving in his large hall. Tliat such a man 
should feel no pleasure in hearing of the " great republi- 
can wreck," as a townsman called it, was not much to 
be wondered at; and when he found tliere were two 
sides to that stor}'-, — well, I won't say much more ; but I 
liad no reason to complain of my welcome. 

Wliile seated in the parlor of this cosy hotel, a tall 
gentleman entered, taking a seat apparently in a de- 
jected mood. In a moment my friend the mechanician 

appeared, and introduced me as " Mr. , from 

New York." 

The visitor looked at me a moment before speaking, 
but then said : 

" Are you for the Union ?" 

" Of course — what is there about me to suspect other- 
wise ?" 

"Countryman! give me your hand!" — and he 
bounded toward me, and in a voice tremulous witli 
emotion, added — 

" Oh ! the stories you will hear about our own dear 
country ! But give me your hand ! give me your 
hand ; w^e know what a country we came from !" 

He told me that although an American, he had been 



IN EUROPE. 23 

a resident of Birnilngluiui many years ; and he had al- 
ways felt proud to speak of his country till the 
commencement of this rebellion ; but such reports were 
now circulated, that he enjoyed the opportunity of 
learning from one so recently from America as myself, 
whether it were indeed true that our cities were given 
over to riotous mobs. 

'' Keep easy — it was'nt so a few weeks since — nor do I 
fear it to be our fate, or I would not already feel anxious^ 
about returning." 

This parlor, in which American periodicals abounded, 
hail long been the resort of visitors from the United 
States, and of late, conversation had been almost exclu- 
sively on the war now raging. Tiie general result ap- 
peared to be an admission of the destruction which it 
was asserted had overtaken the nation, and the " South 
Side'' view of the question being in wonderful harmony 
with their supposed pecuniary prosperity, was the pre- 
vailing sentiment. Nevertheless, the host would oc- 
casionally indulge a sly satire on his Secesh patrons, 
which was always taken good naturedly, they being in 
such comfortable majority. He soon learned that I 
was even '• better posted " in the arguments he himself 
used — thanks to my business— and I readily promised 
to be present with a few friends he invited to 
have a cliat on the American Question. 1 was hardly 
aware of tlie work I iiad undertaken, but felt it wa* 



24 WHAT I HEARD 

too late to back out; and wlien the evening arrived, met 
bis friends with a cheerful confidence. Only tlie 
salient points of the long discussion have I rooiu for : 

" Own up candidly, now, don't you wish yon had 
a strong Government like ours, to carry you through * 
vour troubles ?" 

"The strength of our Government is not yet ex- 
hausted." 

"Are you not ashamed of your national h^'pocrisy in 
pretending to favor liberty, when none of you at the 
Korth have ever manifested a willingness to pay honor- 
ably for the abolition of slavery, as we did — spending 
twenty millions for that purpose." 

" Another error. To say nothing of the last effort at 
compromise, compensated emancipation has always had 
advocates in America ; and your own favorite, ' the 
Learned Blacksmith,' knows such societies have existed, 
and tlie Secretary of one of them is now in this very 
room." 

'•' Well, you will admit that English mechanics have 
difficulty in gaining employment in America, on account 
of prejudice." 

" The reverse is the fact ; on the conti-ary, I think the 
prejudice mfaoor of foreign importations continue- ;i 
great deal too long. Of my own trade I speak ci-nii- 
dentiy, and I do know that in IlAKi'iciis' large est:il)lisfh- 
ment in New York, not only are Englislimen freely em- 
ployed, but their situations are not forfeited by all the 



IN EUROPE. 26 

sneers and grnmbling they continue to manifest toward 
the land they bo voluntarily enter." ^ 

" How can you expect sj'rapathy when you have en- 
acted the Morrill Tariff?" 

" "When you will show me an Englishman solici- 
tous for a tariff palatable to Frenchmen, and other 
foreigners, then, perhaps, I will concede the proprietj 
of our tariff being enacted for your special accommo- 
dation." 

Our talk lasted several hours — the utmost good feel- 
ing prevailing ; and as I retired that night, felt a* 
though I had cleared away a considerable number of 
cobwebs. 

I went around to the various factories, rolling mills, 
&c., and had lengthy conversations with both employers 
and employed. 'The effect of the conflict was now sen- 
sibly felt, and I was glad to hear the resignation of those 
on whom it pressed the hardest. One gentleman, who 
heard my reply to certain Alabamians, promised to 
procure me the Town Hall, if I would consent to repeat 
what I then said. 

But other sights and scenes attracted me ; and in • 
few days I went down into Shropshire. 



26 WHAT I HEARD 



CHAPTEK III. 

SHROPSHIRE — LUDLOW CASTLE — A MODERN HERCULA- 
NE0M — WHAT A WINE MERCHANT SAID. 

My chief inducements to visit Ludlow, were the cele- 
brated Castle at that place, and to see an acquaintance 
whom I knew in Massachusetts. " Ludlow Castle" had 
been literally '^ household words " in our family ; and 
us the Great Original greeted me in all its indescribable 
grandeur, I recognized the fidelity of the painting left in 
our parlor, and gladly fulfilled the promise made to 
the " loved ones at home," that I should by all means 
visit it. 

As I found myself walking up the principal street of 
this queer and old-fashioned town, I was almost pain- 
fully oppressed with a feeling of solitude and stagnation. 
Although in the middle of the day, I saw but two or 
three adults on the pavements ; and the length and 
thickness of the grass, which, in many places almost 
covered the paving-stones, seemed in strange contrast 
;to my previous experience. So little change had thirty 
years made in the place, that although I now visited it 



IN lUROPB. 27 

for tho first time, I began to jecognize yarious objecti 
from their relative position to others I had heard talked 
about. 

I entered a house. 

" Is Mrs. A at home f " 

This inquiry was made of a girl perhaps eighteen 
years old. 

" Ees Zur !" — and her knees almost reached the ground 
in the descent of the courtesy she made in reply. A few 
more inquiries were answered in such a manner as to 
impress me with the belief that she was either an 
idiot, or was burlesquing the business. But as her 
master and mistress soon appeared, and were similarly 
treated, of course I saw it was ^'the custom of the 
country." 

Wishing to ride a few miles from the town, I was 
furnished with a driver and vehicle from an inn ; and 
we were soon on our way. My conductor was very 
inquisitive when he learned I was from America ; and 
having heard of the " war," he wished me to tell him 
whether the Indians there would not be tempted to 
attack the whites, now that the latter had got fighting 
among themselves ? 

" Well, there's a wigwam near the Tribune office, 
and their proceedings have been rather boisterous of 



38 



WHAT I HEARD 



late ;"^but the tribe of Tammany have long ceased to be 
nnmerous enough to return to tomahawking." 

We were riding through a country of exceeding 
beauty, culture and. fertility. Kot a gate, fence or 
bridge, but seemed in the best possible condition ; and 
the road, also, had received such care as to make riding 
perfectly luxurious. 

"We alighted at a small cottage. 
^ The lady I was searching for was then visiting a rela- 
tive at this] place, and before the latter entered th« 

joom, Mrs. R begged me to excuse the " country 

manners " of her niece. I expected a little awkward- 
nesB, bad grammar, or temporary embarrassment; but 
hardly for the specimen of English which greeted rat 
from one of England's fairest vales. 

I rose at her entrance, and was about bidding her a 
" good afternoon," when she avoided my offered handj 
and dropping so low a courtesy as to show that it was 
not a recently acquired accomplishment, said, almost 
as soon as she caught sight of me — 

" I he's no schollard ! — I he's no schoUard !" 
Wishing to place her at ease as soon as possible, and 
relieve us from an embarrassment which was rapidly 
augmenting, I ventured to say — " how pleasant are the 



IN EUROPB. 29 

green fields after a sea voyage ;" but she again quickly 
blurted out : 

"I be's no schollard !— I be's no schollard I" and left 
the room without further remark. This person was a 
farmer's wife — mother of a fine family — and " very re- 
spectably connected." 

I returned to the inn called " The FeatherSy' and 
after supper, was shown up stairs into a room ornament- 
ed with the quaint devices of antiquity. The coata-of- 
arms, chilly-looking cherubs, and nondescript anatomies 
of angels whose heaxUy would hardly secure them from 
falling, had a curious eflfect — and I longed for a compani 
ion of " spiritualistic " persuasion that we might hold 
converse in this Chamber of the Past. 

The next morning I ^visited the celebrated Castlb; 
and the frequent descriptions I had read and heard of it, 
made me somewhat familiar with its peculiarities. It 
is undoubtedly a " fine old ruin,-' yet am I not ashamed 
to confess that the town itself interested me fully as 
much, I had a certain affection for one of the housw 
there, where my wife had spent a portion of her girl- 
hood ; and after visiting it, and somewhat astonishing iti 
tenants that Americans were so much like English- 
men, left for a'minute inspection of this very essence of 
qnaintnese. 



30 



WHAT I HEARD 



It was while resident here, that my wife had been 
pupil of a Miss Powell ; and as we had frequently heard 
that she still surviyed, and her brothers also, it seemed 
a good opportunity for me to call and acknowledge our 
appreciation of her labors. _ One of these brothers was 
a wine merchant ; and from him I expected to learn the 
address of his sister, whose memory was still so tenderly 
cherished by her former pupil, now in a foreign 
laud. To Mr. Powell's door I therefore repaired. 

",I am a stranger in Ludlow, sir, and having 
Bpent a day or two very pleasantly here, have 
called on you to acquaint you that my wife, who 
is now in Kew York, was formerly under the instruc- 
tion of Miss P — , your sister, in this town. Having 
invariably heard her spoken of with the most affection- 
ate respect, I hope she will be glad to hear she is kindly 
remembered by one of her old pupils ; and I, sir, beg to 
add my own good wishes for her welfare." 

« Hem ! hem ! What then, sir ? " 

" Why, I should like to obtain her address from yon, 
or hope you will acquaint her with my visit." 

Mr. P — made no reply, but stood playing with 

an enormous bunch of watch-seals, etc. Thinking that 
he was merely of a taciturn disposition, I made a few 
common-place remarks, hoping it would be unoeceesary 



IN EUROPE. 31 

for me to remind him of my object. In the course of 
conversation, I told uim what a novelty it was to my ex- 
perience, to be in such a place as Ludlow — that it was a 
•trange sight, to a New Yorker, to walk among house* 
and streets for hours, without seeing either carpenters, 
builders, stone-cutters or painters employed — as I had 
done that very day ; when he told me I was betraying " the 
usual Yankee ignorance," for during the past year, no less 
than ten thousand pounds had been spent on public im- 
provements. This assertion somewhat astounded me, and 
I was about calculating how many such cottages as ap- 
peared in view could be erected for that sum, and how 
unfortunate I was in being unable to witness for myself 
the least confirmation of his remark. I timidly inquired in 
what portion of the town said improvements had been 
made, when I was told that St. Lawrence's church had 
teen — " restored ;" new stained glass windows inserted, 
and so on. The mystery was solved ; and as I found I 
had unintentionally wounded the vanity of my lord, and 
would probably not mend the matter by inquiring how 
he arrived at the conclusion that the town of Ludlow 
and St. Lawrence's church were one and the same thing, 
I attempted to revert to my original request. 
\ "No, sir, I do not choose to furnish you ^with her ad- 
dress. You, who are an utter stranger to me, ought to 



32 



WHAT I HEARD 



have known better than to make bo unreasonable a re- 
quest." 

I " Pardon me, sir, but I have already told -you my 
name ; here is my card with my London address also ; 
and as you seem to be somewhat suspicious of strangers, 
Dr. Adams, on the other side of the street, will vouch 
for my respectability ;" and I held out my [card for his 
acceptance. He motioned it away, and replied, as near 
as I can remember, 

I ._ " I will have nothing to do with either you or your 
card. You are an American, whose chief delight is to 
depreciate everything in Britain, while you hate us with 
ft hatred only born of envy. Americans are now being 
found out in their true character, and I only wish there 
were more John Bulls as honest as myself, to show you 
we utterly despise you." 

This tirade took me so by surprise, that 1 could not 
utter another word. To be so treated by one whom I had 
called to compliment, was a disagreeable experience. 
I felt my cheek tingle with an indignation impossible to 
describe as I left the house ; but have had no similar ex- 
perience since.^ 

I returned to the " Feathers ;" and learning that the 
train for Shrewsbury left at eight in the morning, in- 
quired if I could hare my breakfast in time to proceed 



IN EUROPE. 3S 

by that conveyance. Being informed tliat I could, I re- 
tired with that intention. I awoke about seven o'clock, 
ftnd went down][[8taira to^see where my breakfast had 
beeli laid. For some five minutes no one could be 
found, but at length a sleepy looking girl with a disgust- 
ingly dirty face made her appearance, and commenced 
•weeping out the bar-room. To my enquiries, I could 
only draw from her that " Missus wasn't awake yet," and 
all hopes of breakfast were at once postponed. It now 
only lacked thirteen minutes of the time of departure, 
and I begged the girl to furnish me with my bill. Still 
no " Missus" or deputy made her appearance, and just as 
I began to wonder if it would be safe to depart, leaving 
them to hunt for their pay as I had for my bill, a young 
woman, rather more stylish than the first, met my eye, 
and I again offered to pay, as I had but a few moments 
to spare. After rummaging, first for paper, then 
for ink, and then for a pen that could be persuaded to 
make a mark, the damsel produced a document which I 
lost no time in having receipted. I had moved a few 
•teps toward the door when^ shrill voice reached me — 

" You haven't paid the chambermaid." 

" And how much is her charge, and why not included 
in the bill f" 

Thie item having also been satisfied, again I re- 



34 WHAT I HEARD 

iumed my journey down the street, but had proceeded 
only a few steps, when a dirty little fellow suddenly up- 
rose before me, with the exclamation — "Boots, sir!" 
Although I should willingly have compensated him for 
hie professional services had they been performed, I was 
somewhat surprised that he had the " cheek" to ask for 
his fee, while allowing me to leave his domain with such 
dirty boots as I then wore. 

Such was the best accommodation this town of some 
two thousand inhabitants contained to welcome visitors 
and travellers. 

I was just in time for the train, and found a dozen or 
so of reapers. Although they were undoubtedly Eng- 
lishmen, their language sounded horribly harsh and dis- 
eordant, while tlie_,utter absence of intellectuality from 
their countenances, led me to wonder in what part of 
^e States a parallel could be produced. I was glad 
when we arrived at Shrewsbury, and as it was some 
three hours before a train left there for London, availed 
myself of the opportunity to walk about the town. Af- 
ter satisfying my curiosity for the quaint and grotesque, 
I began to hunger for breakfast. My eye caught a tidy- 
looking house with the inscription, " Meals at all hours." 
I entered, asking for breakfast — not particular what it 
was, so that it could be soon produced. After waiting 



IN EUROPB. 35 

up Btairs some ten minutes, I went to the door, and 
heard the " Missus " blowing up the fire with a pair of 
bellows, and the servant with her own sweet tongue. 
Inferring that it would be some time before the water 
would boil, I again strolled down the main street, and 
went into a book store for a daily paper. " Haven't got 
to-day's yet, sir ; but here's Thursday's Salopian Jour- 
nal." Forgiving the man for offering a New York 
printer a newspaper three days old, I found my way 
back to my breakfast, which I enjoyed exceedingly ; 
having finished which, I went by the next train to Lpn- 
doD. 



36 WHAT I HEARD 



CHAPTER IV. 

ARRITAL IN LONDON — OMNIBUS CONVERSATION — 
';GOOD NEWS FROM HOME/' 

Abbiving at the Paddington Station, I entered an 
omnibus for one of tlie " eastern districts." Somewhat 
fatigued with my long ride, I intended to take advan- 
tage of the hour or two now left to rest myself, and pre- 
pare for the long story to be told my relatives in 

•treet. But from this I was debarred entirely, by a fellow 
passenger with a smiling countenance, inquiring of me — 

" 'Ave you 'eard the news ?" 

The [question being repeated before I replied, even 
then did I rather abstractedly rejoin, 

" Tes — that is, no. I don't believe it." 

I had heard the evening papers cried for sale, and gup- 
pofled reference was had to some of "Renter's tele- 
grams." 

" I hope it is true, though ; and why do you discredit 
it, sir t" said another. 



nm mm n 



IN BUROPE. 37 



* "What nowst" 

'• That the American Rebels have suffered a serioui 
reverse," and his countenance indicated plainly that he 
did " hope it was true." 

This indeed was an auspicious re entry to my native 
city, to find a resident rejoicing in good news [from my 
adopted country — and my tongue was loosed in a mo- 
ment, 

" "Well," said I, •' if it is not true yet, I hope it soon 
will be "— 

" And 60 do I ; for, after all, the Americans, as you 
may say, are next to English, and it's a pity their gov- 
ernment should go down so soon." 

I informed my querist that since 1 had been in Eng- 
land I had heard and read such absurd statements, that 
I was afraid I should lose my patience in denying them. 

" Then you're from America yourself, as I suspected." 

" Both //'(^m America, and /tw- America," said I, al- 
ready anticipating the delights of the /' homeward 
bound." 

"How I should like to visit your glorious country t 
AVill you not take a seat outside with me, that we 
may converse m far as we ride together?" 

l^mounted to the top, and he kept up a brisk conver- 
•ation, eierting himself to describe the object! of in- 



38 WHAT I HBARD 

terest as we passed them. He was as inquisitive u uj 
Yankee I ever fell in with, and obtained my name, bui- 
iness, and destination with a rapidity which wat JMt 
beginning to awaken my suspicions, which were not diwi- 
pated when he told me he should prolong his ride from 
the hotel he intended staying at, and accompany me to 
King William street, that he might enjoy my conrersa- 
tion ! Whatever interest my talk may have had to him, 
his own narration was an agreeable experience to my- 
self. ; He was frank and intelligent to a high degree ; said 
his father was in Government employ, and hated the 
Yankees intensely. For himself, as he had frequently 
come to London on business, which brought him in con- 
tact with men from " the States," he was of quite differ- 
ent opinion, and his prospects being those unpromising 
ones of an English younger son, led him to anticipate a 
not very distant transfer to the Western World. 

I reached the house which was my destination, only 
to learn that the Brother I had so longed to see once 
more, had been conveyed to the tomb but three days 
previously. The grief at his loss was alleviated by the 
united testimony of his family, that his affection contin- 
ued for me, to his last hour. * * <- * 



IN EUROPB. • Sd 



CHAPTER V. 

LETTERS OF INTRODUCTION — WEST END DINNBRS — 
DEGRADATION OF BUSINESS MEN. 

One of the first letters which I delivered after mj 
arrival in the great city, was that which a worthy New 
Yorker had sent by me to his brother, whose establish- 
ment in the fashionable part of London bore a eimilai* 
relation to others wliich Stewart's does to the " stores" 
of Manhattan. The gentleman was rather formal and re- 
served at our first interview ; but at the second, seemed 
so interested in what I found to talk about, that he 
pressed me to dine with himself, family and friends, at 
his villa in St. John's Wood. As the house was some 
four or five miles from my headquarters, I felt rather re- 
luctant to keep the late hours which seemed a necesiary 
sequence. But hoping that I could obtain an early with- 
drawal, or perhaps be invited to tarry all night, I kept 
the appointment, and soon found myself surrounded by 
gentlemen and ladies whose only eulogiumi at my 
bands shall be that they were ladies and gentlemen 
in reality. However superior the advantages they 



40 WHAT 1 HEARD 

■possessed over myself in scholarsliipj statesmanship, 
and the graces ^ of refined and fashionable society, 
they courteously made me forget the disparity, as 
they allowed my tongue to run on enthusiastically in 
vindication of Kepublican Government. 

It was only when I noticed a repeated look of in- 
credulity, as I spoke of myself as a visitor only, 
that they felt like convincing me of ^the folly of enter- 
taining the hope of ever again reurning^to Ameri ca. 

" I wonder that any one can wish to leave England 
who has had .opportunity of witnessing and enjoying 
her peace and prosperity." 

" We are not the least surprised at the failure of re- 
publican government in such a crisis," said another. 

" Yet Ve reallyJfe^Vsorry ; for"the [more cultivated 
and intelligent Americans are so very much like Eng- 
lishmen." 

" Are there not many among your upper classes who 
would gladly favor the re-establishment of a monarchy ?" 

"I really think our Government would be justified in 
preventing the further effusion of blood." 

" But one good result must inevitably follow. Some 
of our foolish colonies will see the fate awaiting them 
if they dissolve their connection with the mother coun- 
try." 



IN EUROPE. 41 

And so passed away the evening, with entire good hu- 
mor on both sides. While they could scarce refrain 
from alluding to my destitution of the attributes they 
supposed universal to Americans, on my own part I was 
pjizzled to meet so much geniality and courtesy of the 
highest kind sandwiched in among so much misconcep- 
tion of American character, and that amusing British 
assumption of superiority so ridiculous to all but its pos- 
sessors. 

As midnight approached, and carriage after car- 
riage bore away my agreeable companions, I began 
to feel uneasy at ray own carriageless condition, yet 
hesitated to withdraw while in doubt whether I was 
expected to remain all night. But at length the 
host's son hastily informed me that the " last omni- 
bus " was approaching, and handing me my hat, 
4iccompanied me some distance, but not far enough 
to witness my disappointment in finding the vehicle 
a private aflfair ; and myself left to trudge nearly all 
the way to Charing Cross before a cab bore down to 
convey me to the precincts of St. George's. It may 
"not be etiquette" in England to invite a visitor to 
remain all night ; but I hope, for the sake of my 
British brethren, such a fashion will not soon take root 

in American cities. 
3 



42 WHAT I HEARD 

In a conversation with Mr. O , which I had 

fiubsequently in the city, he was profijBe in his com- 
'pliments at my deportment ; bnt inviting me to repeat 
my visit to St. John's Wood, said — 

"Mr. T- , I hope you believe that / esteem 

you none the less for your peculiar republicanism; 
and therefore, excuse me if I suggest to you that 
when you again meet my friends, avoid all reference 
to having ever been in business, but fall in both 
with those who affect to despise it, as well as those 
who really do." 

For a moment I wondered how I could possibly 
have said anything contaminated by that hateful word 
" business," while in such an entirely unbusinesslike 
mood and condition. 

My friend further explained himself — 

" Why, a gentleman actually came to me during 
the evening, and asked me if it Were true that 
you were a printer — that he understood you to say 
so?" 

"I do not remember making that assertion; but 
surely you do not wish me to deny it ?" 

"Oh! but you did! Don't yon remember what 
you said about the leader of the Canadian Parlia^ 



IN EUROPE. 43 

rnent, and his formerly publishing a tory newspaper 
in New York ?" 

" That he was a specimen of — " 

" ' Intensified bigotry ' you called it, adding, * I 
knew him well, from the time I printed the British 
Chronicle for him.' " 

I was guilty, by my own confession — of being a 
printer ! 

And how was my host to palliate such duplicity 
to his guests as was involved in inviting them to 
hear " a gentleman from America," who betrayed him 
self to be only a printer ! 

" You do not appear, my dear Sir, to see this 
matter as we do. You might just as well have cji- 
joyed the reputation of- a litterateur^ scholar or 
statesman, as you evidently could" — (I bowed at the 
compliment) — " as speaking so bluntly about your 
confounded printing office. Now do avoid it in fu- 
ture." 

1 had promised myself mucli pleasure in j-esiiming 
our chat at St. John's Wood; but tliis intimation that 
the company were so •' highly genteel" as to ex])ect 
me to be ashamed of my connection with the Divine 
Art, which had enabled me to enjoy tLe delights o^ 



44 WHAT I HEARD 

travel, neutralized my aspirations, and I at once ex- 
empted my really kind friend from further liability 
to anxiety on my account. 



IN EUKOPE. 45 



C II A P T E Pw VI. 

ENGLISH GENTILITY "WOODBINE COTTAGE*' 

, PRIDE AND POVERTY. 

Having been accidentally reminded tliat there was 
a family in London who had been profuse in their 
epistolary acknowledgments of gratitude for certain 
pecuniary assistance rendered to a member of it on 
his advent to our Western shores, I thought it " would 
pay " to look in npon them, and afford them the 
opportunity, if they felt disposed, to reimburse me at 
least the money I had once loaned a scion of this 
family, whom I invariably heard extolled as being 
" 60 very genteel !" An omnibus and a few minutes' 
walk brought me, one fine afternoon, to the gate of 
" Woodbine Cottage." As I now recollected its mas- 
ter was in Government employ, and also the many 
" airs " his own '• heir " indulged in during his inter- 
course with the men of Manhattan, a doubt arose in 
my mind as to the propriety of my alluding to so insig- 



46 WHAT I HEARD 

nificant a sum a3 £5 in such a circle. Nevertheless, 
as I had already found even so small an amount would 
go a good way in some matters, and feeling somewhat 
inclined to test the sincerity of their protestations of 
gratitude, I rang the bell. 

The servant, having paid the usual tribute of delay 
to inexorable Etiquette, at length appeared, with be- 
coming gravity. 

Before presenting my card, I inquired if Mrs. F 

was at home. 

"Who is it?" reached my ears in a rather loud 
whisper. 

I was about sending up my name, when the whim 
took possession of me to indulge them with an " agree- 
able surprise" — so I responded quickly i 

" A friend from Kew York." 

" The name, please sir, and I'll see if master's home." 
' I hadn't the heart to continue an unmoved witness 
of the struggle to own "at home" or "not at home,' 
so I gave my name, — one of that rare class which is 
never confounded with' another. 

I was quite politely received, it is true, and informed 
that letters received from their son had spoken of my 
having been " very kind " to him in a foreign land, 
among strangers. 



IN EUROPE. 47 

*• Ed. had no reason to leave England — and I do 
hope he will never disgrace his family. We feel vexed 

at him for going to America, when Sir as" good 

as said he could get him an appointment. Besides, the 

Secretary of Lord 's estate promised to put him 

in the way of promotion — and you know his uncle was 
many years in the Juke^s service — oh ! Sir, there was no 
need of his emigrating — of course not !" 

" Do you wish him to return ?" 

" Oh no, no, no. But we feel sorry lest he should 
lose all his advantages among that imcultivated and 
vulgar nation." 

As I compared the fervor of their writings with 
the present formality, and doubted whether it were worth 
while to repeat ray visit, Mrs. F exclaimed, " 

"You must come when is at, home. They 

will be so delighted at seeing one from America." 

As the lady accompanied me to the door, a lad 
brought a small paper parcel, which I was about taking 
to pass to her, when with an assumption of dignity 
which to me appeared ridiculous, ahe^ waved her 
hand, and calling her servant, made the messenger wait 
till [that important accessory to her " position " made 
her appearance. 
1^ Hardly able to decide whether disgust or amusemeat 



48 WHAT I HEARD 

preponderated at such puerile pomposity, I concluded I 
would let a subsequent visit decide my halting judg- 
ment. 

Ij5r In a week or two, then, ^did I again halt at the 
*' Woodbine Cottage." There were several more mem- 
bers of the family now present, who seeined glad to 
hear of the health and prosperity of their absent relative 

But as the evening progressed, Mr. Half-Pay Officer 
became rather more pointed than polite in his opinions 
of the Americans. As he dilated with intense gusto on 
" Repudiation," I was reminded of the "glass housa' 
he himself occupied. 

" Englishmen always pay their debts !" said he. 

^'Thenlhave lately heard gross slanders of many 
who now live in America." 

I drew him aside, asking him if he ever intended to 
go to the United States. 

" Not I indeed ! Why do you ask ?" 

"To learn how "you intend performing the promise- 
you have made me three times to repay me what I lent 
your sou." 

I" Oh ! ah ! — hem ! — did Zsay I would pay it ?" 

" Tour letters^did — shall Ifproduce them ?" 

"Quite unnecessary. — my word is my bond. — But 
really — really " 



IN EUROPE. 49 

" Well, I hoped you would need no such reminder ; 
but since you have provoked it, I think- you ought to 
pay me — or on that topic at least, ' forever after hold 
your peace.' " 

He ajffected to regard this allusion as jocose ; but the 
keen ears of his wife had got an inkling of what we 
were talking about ; and shortly after, seating herself by 
my side, she made most grateful acknowledgments to 
me, and assured me of her intention to pay, and keep it 
a secret from her husband. Again I felt the insignifi- 
cance of the sum, and regretted I had been betrayed 
into any reference to it. 

At her urgent request, however, I called on an ap- 
pointed day to receive the money ; but with many 

apologies Mrs. F begged a further extension. 

How many times this indulgence was repeated, I am 
ashamed to write, for both our sakes ; but their financial 
enterprise at length resulted in enabling them to raise 
£2 towards the amount ; and' that sum took " all 
hands " of this pretentious Hypocrite Hall seven or eight 
weeks to accumulate. 

My only apology for thus alluding to so trivial a per- 
sonal affair, is that I subsequently found a large num- 
ber of families in various parts of Britain, who, wliile 
apparently enjoying both comfort and luxury, were 



50 WHAT I HEARDf 

even continually pinched for '[sufficiency of food — 
living in such a hand-to-mouth condition that their pri 
vate tables are as meagrely furnished as one I remember 
witnessing at a fashionable Boarding School on the Hud- 
son Eiver. 

The bondage which a class of Englishmen endure in 
their endeavor to "keep up appearances," must be seen 
to be believed — and to one who so heartily detests all 
manner of shams as myself, it forcibly conJSrms the 
axiom that " pride and poverty " go together. 



IN EUROPE. 51 



cdAPTEPw YII. 



LECTURE ON AMERICA — THE WAR — ELECTION OF 
LINCOLN THE ANECDOTE OF THE TELE- 
GRAPH OFFICE. 



Among the many enormous posters and handbills 
which the bill-stickers of London were bestowing upon 
her citizens, I noticed one with the familiar heading of 
" America," which, of course, instantly magnetized mo 
into its perusal. " The War "— " North and South "— 
"President Lincoln," &c., &c., were duly set forth as 
the topics of a lecture to be delivered by II. Vincent at 
the Commercial St. Chapel. At the hour appointed, I 
found myself nearly in the centre of a large congregation 
assembled to hear this popular lecturer, and on the most 
interesting topic he could select — "ThCiWar in Amer- 
ica." I rightly inferred the gentleman to be the cele- 
brated Chartist leader of previous yeai-s, and my natural 
interest to hear the lecturer, increased my curiosity to 
see how the subject would fare at his hands. 



52 WHAT I HEARD 

The discourse was rather lengthy, but in the aggre- 
gate a tolerably impartial statement of the history and 
condition of aifairs. There were many points intended 
to be particularly complimentary to us, which were 
sometimes more fulsome than accurate. But an evi- 
dently sincere belief in the general inferiority of Ameri- 
cans to Britons so continually "cropped out" during 
the evening, that I was forcibly reminded of the cow and 
the bountiful pail of milk. 

At length he essayed to recite the Lincoln Anecdote 
— and as its author has since become responsible for a 
larger progeny than he perhaps cares to own, I will re- 
store this one its birthright. The story was intended to 
compliment the American President on his domestic 
rirtues, and related how, on the evening the electoral 
votes were being received at the various telegraph sta- 
tions, Abraham being at the Springfield Ofiice, noted 
the figures as they ranged in the alternate columns. 
When enough were in the right column to indicate his 
election, it was said that the tall rail-splitter broke away 
from his congratulators, remarking, " There's a little 
woman down the street who would like to hear that !" 
and made his own family the first participants in his 
fame and fortune. It was a very good anecdote in its 



IN EUROPE. 63 

time, and I well remember its going the rounds of the 
newspapers. 

Biif, shades of Grimaldi ! how was it now rendered ! 
Tlie lecturer, who was really a handsome man, suddenly 
threw himself into such unnatural contortions in at- 
tempting to imitate the supposed appearance of the 
six-footer, as quickly to excite the risibles of the 
most sedate of his hearers. But when he repeated the 
words, " W-a-a-11 — neow ! I guess there's a little wo- 
man," &c., with a nasality past endurance, the roars 
of laughter at the pronunciation were absolutely deaf- 
ening. A little coloring or exaggeration was per- 
haps allowable, but to lead such an audience to be- 
lieve that the chosen head of the United States 
should be s'lch a boor, was undoing all his previous 
work. 

"Can' it be possible they believe we talk like 
that .'" said 1 to my companion. 

"Of c mrse they do — for Mr. Vincent is regarded 
one of your nation's stauichest friends." 

In a few minutes more the lecturer took his seat, 
and the pastor of the congregation, who had acted 
as chairman, came forward to " make a few re- 
marks " preliminary to the usual vote of thanks in 
such cases. As he fumbled and deliberated witli 



64 WHAT I HEARD 

what seemed to me provoking prolixitjj I stood up 
and had ejaculated, " Mr. Moderator," before I liad 
time to *' collect my thoughts " in proper phraseol- 
ogy. An enthusiastic impulse took entire possession 
of my faculties to repel this gross caricature of 
American speech, and I repeated in a tone -whi«h 
surprised even myself, — " Mr. Moderator, — Allow me 
to thank the gentleman" — in an instant I had an 
attentive audience, and profiting in the happy acci- 
dent of this complimentary entering wedge. I re- 
peated yet more distinctly and composedly — "Allow 
me to thank the gentleman, not only on my own 
behalf, but for those o-f my countrymen now present, 
for his general impartiality and accuracy in the lec- 
ture of this evening. In the odium and misrepre- 
sentation w^ are now experiencing, it is indeed 
agreeable to be relieved with even the credit whicb 
the gentleman bestows upon us to-night — not so much 
perhaps, for entire accuracy of detail, as for the 
apparent desire to modify the misappreheil^ion which 
has Bo strangely taken root about our affairs. I there- 
fore most heartily thank hira for the tribute of justice 
he now pays us, at the same time that I beg his per- 
miesion to correct some slight inaccuracies into whicli 
he has fallen." 



IN EUROPE. 55 

The gentleman rose, and nodding an assent, I con- 
tinued — 

" Your lecturer has given you an anecdote of our 
President, and imitated his supposed pronunciation to 
your evident amusement. Now if his other delineations 
were not a little more accurate, 1 could not conscien- 
tiously endorse them — and as I find a general belief 
that we talk in the manner you have heard, I must here 
deny it, for it is far from the fact. L have myself 
been in most of the States, and particularly in those 
which we ourselves term ' Yankee,' and where the nasal 
twang vibrates its most discordant notes. .But never, 
even there, does it assume such proportions as you 
have heard represented." 

I then imitated as faithfully as possible the three 
tones peculiar to the Eastern, Middle, and Southern 
States. Quite emboldened at the attention paid to my 
remarks, I continued, in a strain of self-posseesion as 
astonishing to myself as the interruption had been to 
the audience — 

•' Not only do we not talk as you liave heard rep- 
resented, but I confidently assert — and challenge any in 
this assembly who have ever been there to contradict 
me — that throughout the entire length and breadtli o>" 
our national domain we speak tlie language more uiii- 



^ 



56 WHAT I HEARD 

formly correct than is done even in this populous city 
of London . " 

And now followed a reward quite sufficient for my 
highest ambition . Clapping of hands, cheers, waving 
of handkerchiefs, and the like, soon confirmed my con- 
viction th^t the English people gladly hear testimony 
which is reliable to the credit of their " American 
cousins." 

Kesuming my seat, the Moderator said to me, 

" Will the gentleman give his views as to the 
period of the war, and which party he supposes will 
eventually triumph ?" 

" My own opinion coincides with what Mr. Yincent 
has already given you." 

"I should like to hear your sentiments as to the 
propriety of our Government interfeing to prevent 
further bloodshed." 

"I think foreign intervention would be useless 
if not positively hurtful to both parties. For myself, 
I would only say, ' Keep out of our family quarrel if 
you wish to remain friends. Kespect our rights — be 
honest in your neutrality, — and don't let the cotton 
now accumulating at New. Orleans, Savannah, and 
Charleston, tempt you — and we shall have no ground 
of complaint.' " 

As this modest hint for them to mind their own 



IN EUROPE. 57 

business had ' been brought out so happily, another 
round of applause greeted me, and I took my seat 
literally " overcome with emotion." 

As I passed out of the pew, ladies and gentlemen 
gathered round me congratulating me for my remarks. 
A gentleman insisted on taking me up to the plat- 
form, where he introduced me to the lecturer and 
others. One lady remarked, " Oh ! it was so manly 
for you to speak up for your country." As my com- 
panion claimed me for a Briton, this compliment to 
my courage was endured with becoming resignation 
and I went home — no longer afraid to sjpeak in j^ublic^ 



58 WHAT I HEARD 



CHAPTEK VIII. 

LONDON GIN PALACES — ^BLACK MEAT — ROSEMARY 
LANE. 

One evening, as I had just settled myself to en- 
joy the perusal of a batch of JSTew York papers, I 
heard the servant, addressing the family where I 
was tarrying, exclaim — 

" It's Aopen^ a.K last — and there's sich a crowd !" 

I was informed this was said in reference to a 
new gin palace which was in the neighborhood. , 

" Oh, you should see that !" said 'my hostess^ 

<' for it is in opposition to the House, and 

makes a great display." 

Kather reluctant than otherwise to witness scenes 
of debasement and misery, I allowed myself to be 
persuaded to go round there for a few minutes. A 
gentleman present told me to leave off [my watch 
and chain, took off my spectacles for safety, and 
pulling down my slouchy Zossuth well over my eyes^ 



IN EUROPE. 59 

expressed the hope tliat I would be able to return 
uniDJured in person or property. Having taken me 
to " Shovel Alley," he pointed the direction for me to 
take, and left me to my chances. I was borne along 
by the crowd till we reached the new house, which 
was densely packed with men, women, and children. 
The blaze of gaslight falling far across the street, re- 
vealed the wan features of the miserable creatures 
who were clustered around. Some half dozen boys 
stood in a circle with fifes, whistles, and mouth-organs, 
endeavoring to drown the noise of a similar hand at 
the rival beer-shop on the other side. On all the 
faces which met my gaze during that half hour's contem- 
plation, indeed wa? " poverty, hunger and dirt ;" while 
the odor from the rags in which the crowd were clad, 
became so sickening, that I was soon glad to retreat. 

On my way back, I noticed again the butcher-shops 
with the little piles of scrap-meat scattered over the 
tables in front. Black, and fly-blown, and tainted as 
they appeared, I could hardly believe they were tick- 
eted, 2d, £2, 3d, etc., for human palates, till I saw 
repeated the longing eyes cast thereon by tlie poor 
bipeds who sometimes thus invested some of their cop- 
pers; but there was a suggestive disproportion in the 
sale of the two commodities. 

As I remembered Dickens' visit to our Five Points, 
and the revelation of the vice and dissipation of our 



60 WHAT I HEARD 

city eye sore, I could not help contrasting the picture 
he then witnessed among our foreign residents, and 
that now before me of the natives^ and the infantile 
depravity and deformity which added to the horror of 
the spectacle now before me. 



IN EUROPE. 61 



CHAPTEK IX. 

VISIT TO A WORKHOUSE — THE PANCRAS "CASUALS." 

In one of my daily perambulations, I had met a 
fellow craftsman -wlio, like myself, was visiting his na- 
tive city. Owing to a former personal variance not 
necessary to be here related, our friendship had lately 
suffered considerable condensation ; but no sooner did 
we meet on soil which actually seemed for ign to 
both of us than our feelings rapidly mounted to their 
former fervency, and we made many excursions to- 
gether. This man was even more indignant at what 
he heard of our country than myself. Being of 
much more impulsive and ardent temperament than 
I was, and finding our impressions wonderfully 
alike, he took me further into his confidence, and 
revealed to me suflScient events in his history for 
the material of a respectable novel. Of the truth 
of his whole narrative I was soon convinced ; for ho 
had worked by my side many years before, and I 
knew from other sources the reason of his emigra- 
tion to America. 



62 WHAT I HEARD 

His urgency at length overcame my reluctance 
to witness more of the misery of the poor ; when 
he offered as a final enticement for me to accom- 
pany him, that he would show me the original char- 
acter which furnished Dickens with his celebrated 
Oliver Twist — and the table where he asked for 
" more." 

So my friend took my arm, and on the way en- 
tertained me with considerable portions of his per- 
sonal history, and when he stopped at the door of 
this large building, said to me, 

*' This is where / graduated.^^ 

Then turning to the clerk, added — 

""Will you allow me to look at your records 
of admissions for 183- ?" 

"For what purpose?" 

" Only to learn when was admitted." 

" You're not from another parish — eh V in a sus- 
picious manner. 

It appears there is still such a constant shoving 
away of parochial protection, that the Bumbles are 
very chary of letting strangers have access to their 
documents. 

" Oh ! indeed, I am not on that errand. I have 
fared in various ways since I left this place ; but 



/ 



IN EUROPE, 63 

1 assure you there is not the least danger that I shall 
ever voluntarily become your boarder again. Come, 
I want to see the exact date when I ran away from 
here, for that is the object of my visit." 

We were taken to a room, the shelves of which 
contained the numerous volumes and records of paro- 
chial matters. 

" Yes ! gentlemen !" said my friend, while the 
" Master " and his clerk were hunting up the book 
desired, — " I once was an inmate here, and was un- 
grateful enough to run away^'' 

" Ah ! sure enough," said Mr. Morrison, " here it 

is— Ernest H ; admitted, Sept. -, 183-;" and 

turning to his clerk — " and there it is again, marked 
' ran away.' Why, it's just as he said." 

"Thank you," said Mr. H . "And will you 

allow me to pilot my old friend here through the va- 
rious wards?" 

Permission was given, and my companion hastily 
explained the emotion he betrayed by informing me 
that owing to an intemperate parent, he had been 
placed in that institution^^in his infancy. 

When Mr. Morrison found we were both from 
America, he manifested the utmost desire to entertain 
us : and after alluding to our unhappy struggle, and 



64 WHAT I HEARD 

expressing liis evident regret at the calamity, re- 
marked that his sympathies could hardly be called 
in question — for he had espoused an American wife 
— and it was not long ere we were all dining at 
the same table. 

My friend "Oliver" as I might call him, enter- 
tained us so much that it was now our turn to 
press him to continue his narrative ; and after a 
dinner which had prolonged itself into tea, he 
walked back with me to my lodgings, congratulat- 
ing himself that he had been the first to meet an 
American lady in the dingy city of London. 

Mr. Morrison invited us to call again at an 
earlier hour of the day, and more leisurely investi- 
gate the institution and its inmates. 

A week or two afterwards, we therefore entered 
its portals ; and while sauntering down its main 
hall, a man touched my friend on his shoulder, 
asking if he was Mr.' ? 

" That's my name." 

"Mr. Morrison's compliments, and says the Board 
is in session, and would like you to meet them in 
its Committee Eoom." 

We followed our guide. 

On entering the room, I was struck with- the num- 



IN EUROPE. 65 

ber of -wliite-haired old gentlemen who sat round 
the large table. 

Mr. Morrison introduced my friend. 

■ "This is Mr. who called last week. He 

is just from America, and I have been quite inter- 
ested in his account of his experience in that coun- 
try." 

The business was suspended — we were proffered 
seats, and a gentleman said to Mr. H., 

" We have been told that you are an English- 
man, who has lived long in America — that you now 
are a naturalized citizen of the United States, — 
that you have had somewhat of an eventful life — 
at one time an inmate of this house — and are now 
on a pleasure visit to this place of your nativity. — 
Will you give us a brief narrative of your experi- 
ence ?" 

" Yes, gentlemen ! since you no longer suspect 
me of wishing your benefactions, I may with pro- 
priety enlighten you how my changed condition 
renders such application exceedingly improbable. 

"It is true that I am a native of St. Pancras. 
It is also true that I was once a pauper— and 
your books testify that I ran away from here in 
1832. For that youthful folly I paid due penalty 



66 WHAT I HEARD 

in being imprisoned in the " Black Hole " nearly 
under our feet here ; but since my second escape, I 
have taken root on western shores, where I assure 
you, gentlemen, not even the present fratricidal con- 
flict will tempt me to abandon. Yes ! gentlemen, 
here in my native parish, do I linger round scenes 
of former suffering, only to feel the more grateful 
that for many years my lines have fallen in pleasant 
places." 

> A considerable pause ensued, no one of the com- 
pany seeming prepared to respond to my friend's 
apostrophe. 

At length, howevei", a gentleman rose, and after 
putting a few questions to Mr. H. respecting the 
names of the officers who then had charge of the 
edifice, and satisfying himself of their correctness, he 
said, 

" Gentlemen, / was on the Board at that time, 

and testify to the correctness of what you have 

heard. And now " (turning to a colleague), " do 

you really wish such a nation to go down? No! 

indeed you do not I — and for my own part, I thank 

God there is such a country for such lads as this 

gentleman once was, to find a refuge in. — ^I thank 

God from the depths of my heart !" 
* * * * * * 



IN EUROPE. 67 

A man was sent with us to conduct us to the 
various wards — and when we reached the vault 
known as the " Black Hole," my friend was so car- 
ried away by his feelings that I left him comparing 
his past and present position to the evident incred- 
ulity of the attendant. " 

At a subsequent visit to this place, Mr. Morri- 
son asked us one evening if we would like to see 
the admission of the usual evening " casuals." He ex- 
plained to us that at nine o'clock every evening, 
the Poor Laws required the various " Unions " to 
admit such destitute vagrants as might apply at that 
hour, and give them shelter for the night. Ac- 
cordingly we accompanied him to the side entrance 
at Agar town, and heard the appeals of the vile 
wretches who crowded the gateway every night. It 
was a sad spectacle — so sad that although it is a 
part of "what I heard" abroad, I relinquish my 
intention of recording it ; and dismiss it with re- 
marking that on that one evening I saw more 
squalor, filth and depravity, than I had ever be- 
fore witnessed in the same time. 



68 WHAT I HEARD 



CHAPTER X. 



LONDON IN THE DAYS OF " BUEKING." 



When a mere lad of some ten or twelve years, I was 
accosted in a London street by & man wlio asked me if I 
would accompany Mm home and receive some marbles. 
Althongli liis personal appearance was rather forbid- 
ding, the tem^ptation proved too alluring for me to resist, 
and I walked by his side for a few minutes, — when the 
thought suddenly struck me that such liberality was ra- 
ther remarkable. It was when the Londoners had just 
been made aware of the horrors of " Burking," as it was 
called — by the revelation of the murder of an Italian 
boy by this method — which consisted in suddenly 
stifling the victim by covering his face with a large 
plaster. I was a newspaper reader even at that early 
age — and as I fancied my companion eyed me very 
sharply, my suspicions were aroused, and I slackened my 
pace, while considering the best excuse to decline 
accompanying him further. The man saw my mis- 
givings, as he turned down a court or alley way in Old 



IN EUROPE. 69 

St. Koad. I only went a few steps down this alley 
when I turned to retrace my way to the open street. 
Before I could escape, however, he dealt me a blow 
which sent me reeling against the wall ; and when I 
recovered my breath and senses, he had disappeared. 
Subsequent events left no doubt in the minds of our 
family, that I had been selected as a suitable sub- 
ject for this new phase of London life, or rather 
death. 

I was one day taking my long walk as usual 
when suddenly uprose before me the dingy walls of 
a well-remembered Hospital. At ouce I recollected it 
was near there I saw " the man with the marbles," and 
turning to the right soon identified other objects to con- 
firm me that I was on the right track. 

And here I must record a peculiar experience which 
was mine during these pedestrian explorations of the 
Great City. As my thoughts would sometimes be far 
away in the West, amid the busy scenes of Manhattan, 
some peculiar structure — Rowland Hill's Chapel, for 
instance — would suddenly " give me pause," — and I 
stopped with a sort of reverence that made me feel 
while gazing on these scenes of half forgotten boy- 
hood, that it must surely have been in some other 
sphere — some other life, — on another planet, — in which 



70 WHAT I HEARD 

I had^known and moved among them. In fact, bo 
wide a chasm had yawned between my present and 
my past — so slender a link existed between my boy- 
hood and manhood, that as I gazed on these resur- 
rected scenes, I felt as though I had been dead 
and buried, and that ray spirit, — not my material 
body, — was now present again around them. 

In a few moments I was again standing on the same 
spot. It surely needed no sentimentality to be deeply 
affected at Time's changes in the last thirty years. * * * 
I placed my hand on the dingy brick wall as near the 
spot as I could remember where my head had formerly 
struck it, and walked slowly along. A window was sud- 
denly closed on one hand, and on the opposite side a 
flitting form retreated into the background. At the 
next house the door was violently slammed, and three or 
four loiterers before it suddenly suspended their con- 
versation, and eyed me sharply till I was well past them. 
I felt myself as much an object of scrutiny to them as 
the locality was of interest to me. 

I now reached a part where the court was intersected 
by a yet smaller one. Crossing this, I pursued my way 
still farther — ^noticing how Bath Court led into Bath 
Lane, and this again into Bath Street. My leisurely 
stroll continued to attract so much attention from the 



IN EUROPE, 71 

idlers about, that I began to "wisli myself well out of its 
purlieus, and could not help sighing to think how little 
the religions proseljtism ■which placarded its walls had 
penetrated this festering mass of degraded humanity. 



72 WHAT I HEARD 



CHAPTER XI. 

DEPARTURE FOR THE NORTH. 

Almost surfeited by the sights as well as the hospital 
ities of the Great City, I was glad to take my seat in the 
cars of the Northern line, and commence enjoying my 
furlough in that part of the country. 

The first village at which I stopped was only some 
twenty miles from London. Pleasantly interlaced with 
its sylvan beauty and superb cultivation were the few 
bright streaks of sunshine of my not over-happy boy- 
hood. 

Alighting at Hatfield, I sought and found the house — 
our house ; my garden, that was ! and from the rhapsody 
of emotion which this sight of " my boyhood's home " 
had exalted ine, fell into mute disgust as a closer inspec- 
tion revealed our once charming cottage turned into a 
beer-shop labelled " the Soldier's Rest," and a sore-eyed 
woman handing round the liquid to the lubberly louts 
who were her customers. 

As I entered and caught sight of the back porch 
fitrange sensations arose within me, and as I mused — 



IN euroPe. 7S 

*' My Father pressed my hand,"— 
" Here too, my sister played !"— 

I looked around for some intelligent being to share my 
interest and emotion. Alas! nothing more than a mere 
grunt of stupid stolidity rewarded me ; and I left the 
house, and entered one opposite, which bore a name I 
well remembered. 

" Are you the Mrs. , who lived here in 1830?" 

" Mother and father lived here then ; but my name is 



" And you and Charles used to go to school over 
there ?" 
" Yes 1 till the old gentleman went to America." 
*' Exactly! — where I have just come from." 
" Come in, sir 1 Sit down. Here, call your father, 
James — here's a gentleman from America." 

The good woman bnstled around, brought me a glass 
of wine, her child some fruit, &c ; and we instantly had 
such a variety of questions to ask each other, that I can- 
not tell to this day which was the more surprised — my- 
self at thus unexpectedly finding so agreeable a school 
mate, or she at realising that the veritable Yankee 
before her could have emerged from the English chryai*- 
lisof "little Johnny." 

On leaving this unexpected ^entertainment I walked 
5 



74 WHAT I HEARD ' 

, Tip the hill to the baronial hall of the Marquis of Salis- 
burj — then through the churchyard — and on my way 
noticed the name of a tradesman, whom I found little 
changed, and who assured me he remembered me well, 
and paid a grateful tribute to the memory of my dear 
father. 

A letter of introduction was given me to deliver at 
Bedford ; and this interesting place next engrossed my 
attention. 

I therefore went direct from the cars, in search of the 
timber merchant, whose sister in 'New York had exacted 
a promise from me that I should deliver her letter per- 
sonally. Arriving about twilight, I at length succeeded 
in finding the house on the Long Wharf. But in answer 
to my ring at the bell, a servant made her appearance at 
an upper window some distance from the outer gate where 
I stood, and told me her master and mistress were gone 
out, and as she was locked in^ she was of course unable 
to admit me. As I wondered how our Western Biddies 
would relish such paternal protection, I left my name 
and business, and started off in the dark, looking for 
lodgings. 

But this impropitious entry into the famous old town, 
was mostjamply counterbalanced by one of the most re- 



IN EUROPE. 75 

markable interviews it was my pleasure to experience^ 
anywhere. 

An old man, who had overheard my inquiry for an 
inn, addressed me very cordially by inquiring if I were 
not from America ? 

" I am ; but how came you to guess it ?" 

" By that very word — and your alluding to Mr. 11." 

I then told him of the absence of Mr. H., and repeated 
my inquiry for a comfortable lodging. 
. " You will find good accommodation at tlie house op- 
posite, or should you prefer it, at yonder building, which 
possesses historic associations connected with the career 
of John Bunyan." 

^He accompanied me to the latter building, where I 
engaged a room,^"and tlien yielded to his urgent 
request to return with him to his cottage. 

"I am delighted to have this opportunity of convers- 
ing with a real American," said lie. 

Smiling at his compliment, I replied — 

" I am equally pleased at finding you so much better 
acquainted with our nation than I at first supposed." 

He continued — 

<' I am much too old to emigrate, and that expectation 

of my ^youth must now remain unfulfilled. But I hope 

o live long enough to see your country again enjoy iug 



76 WHAT I HEARD 

peace — no less for your own sake, than for the millions 
to whom it must pr-pve the haven of prosperity-. And 
now, as I have always been the champion of the United 
States when surrounded by Englishmen, I shall seize the 
rare opportunity now present of criticising your course, 
and admonishing you of some of the dangers your past 
policy renders you liable to." 

^ Quite fascinated by the rough honesty and heartiness 
of this townsman of Bunyan — who might indeed himself 
have passed for a lineal descendant of the " immortal 
tinker "—I begged him to proceed. 

" Well now, I suppose you will be surprised when I 
tell you — radical though I be myself — that you ought 
not to have removed the property qualification, and 
opened wide the door to universal suffrage." 

Amazed at such an opinion from an avowed chartist, I 
asked him how he reconciled the inconsistency of claim- 
ing such exemption for his own countrymen, while 
denying it to mine. 

" I will show you good and logical reasons for my 
opinion. In your country, labor is not only in constant 
demand, but is generally well paid for. Hence, ordin- 
ary health and frugality enables every steady, sober 
man to save something beyond his expenses — and when 
a person once acquires the habit of saving, most gener- 



IN EUROPE. 7l 

ally he becomes improved in his moral character, and at 
all events becomes a more valuable citizen than the vile, 
reckless, and improvident man who remains homeless 
and a wanderer. But it is difficult, if not impossible 
in this country, under the excessive supply of labor, and 
low rate of wages, for a mechanic to become a free- 
holder. There is indeed little opportunity for him to 
bring up his family properly — much less to acquire a 
homestead. 

" Now there is a kind of liberality which a nation may 
practice, that may in its results prove detrimental to all 
— certainly so do I regard the United States' naturaliza- 
tion laws. So, witliout fully showing you how much 
your present anomalous position — a republic, with civil 
war ! — is owing to this delusive reliance on democracy 
of numbers, let me remind you how your wicked Mex- 
ican war received its chief support from the party 
polling the largest non-American vote. But to bring it 
nearer home — as you say you are a New Yorker — 
three times have the votes of the rest of the State 
been thwarted by the foreign vote in that city alone — 
and once at least, you have elected — elected,- mind you I 
— a well known swindler to the mayoralty — one whose 
character as a demagogue was outdone by incontestable 
evidence that he was a forger I" 



78 WHAT I HEARD 

Declining to countermand mj engagement at the inn, 
which my companion urged upon me that I might 
become his guest, I reluctantly bade him good night, 
and returned to the house of Mr. H. I found that 
gentleman had arrived, and was unharnessing his horse 
within the enclosure, while the gate was as fast locked 
as before. The girl, who was holding the light for him, 
as soon as she espied me, said to her master, 

" Here is the gentleman from America who brings 
Tou letters from your friends." 

He made no reply, but continued so leisurely putting 
away his horse and stable accompaniments, as to make 
me imagine he had little anxiety to hear from his sister, 
or that it mnst be a valuable or favored quadruped 
which thus secured such marked preference in his 
attention to the impatient gentleman which I now 
felt myself to be. I had just made up mind to tell 
him he had better call on me for the letters in the 
morning than keep me waiting any longer, when he 
came to the gate, unlocked it, and bade me enter. 
In presenting the parcel, I took care to quiet any 
apprehension he might feel that 1 should be of any 
trouble or expense to him. Little was said by either, 
till Mrs. H. made ber appearance. She, however, 
immediately entered into a brisk conversation, and 



IN EUROPE. 79 

made me promise to breakfast with them in the morn- 
ing- 
Finding my way back witli some difficulty to 
the hotel — for it was very dark — I enjoyed the 
night's rest whish it afforded, took my breakfast 
with the merchant's family as agreed upon ; and 
started out soon after to see the various mementoes 
of John Bunyan, which render the town of Bed- 
ford so interesting to the tourist. The site of the 
old prison — the house where his wife appealed to 
the judges — now the Swan Inn — the chair which he 
once owned, &c., were successively shown me. 
Bat I must abbreviate. I essayed to write — (how- 
ever hard to resist the temptation to deviate) " what 
I heard^'' only — but 1 find it no easy matter. 

I next visited Cambridge ; but my stay there 
was not long enough to elicit anything striking or 
original. 



80 ■ WHAT I HEARD 



CHAPTER XII. 

SHEFFIELD LEEDS DERBY NEWCASTLE 

EDINBURGH GOOD NEWS FROM HOME. 

When I found myself in the great city of man- 
ufactories, I visited such of the human hives as 
were most accessible ; but the din of machinery, 
or the indifference or ignorance of the operatives 
prevented me from hearing much else. At Leeds, 
I heard the peculiar rumble of a Earaage printing 
press, and looking through the dingy window be- 
held a man beating off with the old-fashioned hall 
of Franklin's time, a poster for one of the theatres I 
Wlien we reached Derby, the place was crowded 
with visitors to the races, and that was almost 
exclusively the one subject of conversation. I was 
hardly enough of a sporting character to remain 
long amid such excitement — and " what I heard " 
as I mingled with the crowd is hardly worth re- 
cording — even were types facile enough to do jus- 
tice to the strong language of excited Englishmen, 

At ITewcastle, the dialect grew sensibly harsher 



IN EUROPE. 81 

and more difficult to understand — so I hastily left 
that unhealthy locality, and sped on to Edinburgh. 

As I drew near the Scottish Capital, little changed 
indeed did the city appear to me. Nine-tenths of 
the place presented the same appearance as it did 
a quarter of a century ago ; and excepting the rail- 
road depots, Scott's Monument, and a few additional 
" brown stone fronts," the Edinburgh of 1861 was 
the same as that of 1837. 

I walked up to the Castle in the afteraoon — 
and as a keen eyed guide fastened himself upon 
me, and pointed out from the high ground, the 
house where Burke, the murderer, committed his 
first atrocity, and then two other houses in some 
way connected with his history, he little knew the 
emotions his narrative awakened in his listener. 

■X- ***** * 

In the afternoon, I accompanied a couple of 
friends to the topmost craigs of Arthur's Seat, dur- 
ing which agreeable jannt, it was my experience to 
hear the greater part of the conversation carried on 
by a native American with Scottish accent. (The 
young lady was born in New York, but had been sent 
to Edinburgh in childhood.) 



82 WHAT I HEARD 

While visiting Holyrood Palace, &c., tlie attendant, 
addressing my companion, observed, 

" Ay ! but it's good news, this last arrival." 

" What news — what arrival ?" 

" The war news from America." 

" What paper ? where can I get one ?" 

His disquisition on Rizzio and his reminiscences was 
suddenly curtailed, as I hastened away to get a paper. 

Although the telegram was as usual indefinite and 
vague, it purported to be of the success of the Federal 
arms. It was a pleasant experience to me to witness 
his exultation, and I playfully bantered my country" 
woman on her apparent lukewarmness. 

" Oh ! it's an unco awfu' mess — I dinna understand 
your politics." 

This from the little prattling infant of Kew York 
in '37 ! 

I next entered Glasgow and Greenock ; but nothing 
of special record reached my ear in either of these 
places — though the sight that greeted me in the latter 
locality, I think far exceeded in repulsiveness any I had 
ever before witnessed, even in the dirtiest purlieus of 
maritime cities. 



IN EUROPE. 83 



CHAPTER XIII, 

IRELAND. 

As I landed in Belfast an entire stranger, witli neither 
letter nor credential of any kind, metliouglit I would 
be more likely to be unswerved in my opinion by the 
bias of personal intimacy — so I made the best use of 
eyes and ears during my brief visit. 

I now started on my usual walk, peering into most 
of the doors and windows which were left open. 
I had proceeded but a short distance when I was 
set upon by one of the most repulsive, filthy, and 
frightful looking hags I ever encountered. I out- 
walked he^, however, for a time ; but subsequently 
returning by the same street, she again espied me, 
and now put down the blarney stop, and commenced 
such a torrent of abuse as made me wish for the first 
time for a little assistance, for I longed for a policeman 
to rid me of her annoyance. I was a little amused 
to hear her abuse me as a " dirty English oiiuid- 
hann " (whatever that may be I) as this very clea7ily 
feminine found me impervious to her assaults. How 



84 WHAT I HEARD 

ever, I own to experiencing a " new sensation " — I 
never knew till now what it was to be thoroughly 
blackguarded. 

In my railroad experiences in Ireland, I could 
not help hearing the frequent quarrels between 
those who looked after the travellers. It may have 
been a period of exceptional irascibility ; but to myself, 
who had frequently rail-roaded hundreds of miles 
without seeing a fight or hearing a quarrel, the 
seven or eight occurring only between Belfast and Wa- 
terford, seemed anything but agreeable. As I wit- 
nessed several instances of petty bullying of ignorant 
peasants, and they taking equal delight in retaliating on 
others, I appreciated the Irish Patriot's aspiration for 
a " well stocked Alabama Plantation." 

Arriving at Dublin, I walked towards " Nelson's 
Pillar." On my way, a man poked a card into my 
hand, begged me to read it, and if I liked, he would 
carry my bag to the house he was soliciting patronage 
for. 

I yielded ; but soon found myself in a very nasty 
looking house which I had been foolish enough to 
enter. Asking to see my bed-room, a dirty-looking 
dame took me up stairs, and showed me a room 
containing three beds. Calculating that these were 



IN EUROPE. 85 

at least two too many, I beat a hasty retreat, and set 
out for another shelter, which I found at the Temper- 
ance House near the Carlisle Bridge. 

The next day, at an eating house where I was din- 
ing, I heard conversation respecting the war ; and one 
sitting at my side, asked me if I didn't think the 
rout of Bull Run would hereafter make the Ameri- 
cans afraid to refer to military matters while abroad. 

*' Perhaps so ; but on what account?" 

" Oh ! they ran like a flock of sheep." 

" Ah ! but wTio did they run from ? — any of your 
countrymen, ray friend?" 

" Faith, they ran away, anyhow." 

" Yes ; and I happen to know many of your coun- 
trymen kept them company. I do not tliink Americans 
have any reason to be ashamed of their valor in that 
first shock of civil war." 

Having visited the chief objects of interest in Dub- 
lin , on the last day of my sojourn I hired a cabman to 
take me to Glass-Nevin, etc., for a stipulated sum, he 
guaranteeing to return me to the Post Office by six 
o'clock. Having reached the cemetery, and inspected 
the monument to O'Connell, I was about re-entering the 
cab, when tlie gate-keeper begg&d me to inscribe my 
name, and any " remarks I might be pleased to make." 



86 WHAT I HEARD 

Kot having anj'tliing to criticise or specially commend, 
I hastily wrote, after my residence, " to see O'Connell's 
monument." Before I had retaken my seat, I was some- 
what amused'at hearing the porter's admiration for a 
" gintleman who kim from 'Mirica to see O'Connell's 
monument !" 

The driver having arrived at the Post Office some 
ten minutes after six o'clock, objected to the fare agreed 
upon, and attempted to extort more. A second 
time he refused to receive it — so I left him at the 
door, received my letters, and quit the building by 
a side door while he was waiting in front. 

'I went over the bridge to tea, and then thinking 
the hour's deprivation of his money sufficient pun- 
ishment, essayed to the stand where I had engaged 
him. In the murky twilit^ht I had no difficulty in 
approaching him closely before he discovered me. 
He was recounting his adventure to a brother chip, 
and I heard the most terrible objurgations on the 
" bloody villain " who had cheated him, when I stepped 
forward with the money in ray hand ; — and this unex- 
pected apparition of the shining silver so overcame 
him, that he " answered not a word." 

I left Dublin for Waterford ; but the farther I went 
into Ireland, the more beggars beset me ; and I longed 



IN EUROPE. 



87 



to recros3 the Channel to assuage tlie annoyance. 
So after gratifying ray antiquarian curiosity by inspec- 
tion of the old Bound Tower, dated 1003, and partici- 
pating in a comedy of errors which was improvised 
at my hotel opposite by the gravity of the white-cravated 
waiters, I stepped on board the Shamrock, and took 
passage for Bristol. While standing on the quarter- 
deck, I was trying to remember how many iiglits I had 
seen in the last few days, when I heard a scuffle on the 
lower deck, and again I saw blood flow. A bald- 
headed old man had been stricken down ; but he was 
up again in a moment, and engaged in clutching his 
opponent, a man scarce half his age. The crew 
stopped their work, and seemed to enjoy the stiuggle 
as a common irecreation. The captain even walked 
to the rail, and eyed the battle with evident satisfaction. 
This last brutality was too much for me, and I begged 
him to put a stop to it. He seemed incredulous of my 
desire — said it was "just nothing at all, sir " — and not 
till he saw me moving off to invoke a policeman from 
the tower above mentioned, did he give signs for the 
combatants to resume their work. 



88 



WHAT I HEARD 



CHAPTEK XI Y. 

BRISTOL — BIGOTED CLERGYMAN — RETURN TO LONDON. 

We arrived safely in Bristol on the following 
evening ; and having enjoyed an interview with a sister 
whom I had never before seen, she manifested much 
anxiety about my spiritual welfare. She therefore soon 

introduced me to Eev. Mr. . He assumed at 

once such a patronizing air as to make me long for a 
speedy withdrawal from his arrogant pomposity. As he 
was calling my attention to the grand Cathedral, he 
said, 

" You have nothing like that in America." 

" 'No — nor probably ever shall have." 

"You might have had such in due time, had you 
remained loyal to England ; but God's vengeance has 
overtaken your nation at last, and you are now justly 
suffering for your rebellion to British rule." 

Having attempted to proselyte me to his peculiar 
denominational views, I took rather a malicious pleasure 
in making the most of my ability to confute them. 

" I think America as bad as infidel France," said he. 



WHAT I HEARD 89 

" You are uncliaritable to England's Daughter." 

" French Democracy and American Slavery — glori- 
ous union ! who would not be proud now of being an 
Englishman ?" etc., etc. 

Returning to London, I was again enabled to enjoy 
frequent access to American periodicals, and occasional 
interviews with my countrymen, by calling at " Gun's 
American Agency " in the Strand. This was indeed a 
rare treat" to all of us ; and in alluding briefly to " what 
I heard " there, I will only say there was a wonderful 
unanimity of desire to return home, even while hearing 
on every hand that our nation had gone to ruin. 

"I think it strange that the Federal Government 
takes no measures to counteract the influence of her 
enemies here, by encouraging lectures, speeches, news- 
papers, &c. on behalf of the Union.'" 

" Yes ; and no longer allow such outrageous misrep- 
resentations of the North to be uncontradicted." 

" And see how eagerly the periodicals here copy all 
the desponding articles from Northern newspapers, and 
are equally anxious to present the ' South-side ' view." 
6 



90 WHAT I HEARD 



CHAPTER XY. 

DEPARTURE FOR THE CONTINENT — DIEPPE — ROUEN. 

At length I found myself crossing that spiteful little 
bit of sea separating our British friends from the conti- 
nent. The passage was certainly not conducive to ami- 
ability, and I do not remember hearing anything worth 
recording. 

On landing at Dieppe, however, my forebodings of 
difficulty at my deficiencies in the French langnage 
were speedily removed, as I found myself surrounded 
by those who understood me. 

We had gone but a few miles on the railroad when I 
heard sentences in my native tongue occasionally above 
the noise of the train, and soon after observed a very 
red-faced individual congratulating his companion on 
being Englishmen — " and proud to Aown it, Sir !— yes, 
it's always a honor in travelling to be known as coming 
from ^England." 



IN EUROPE. 91 

" I can't quite agree with that sentiment," exclaimed 
a mnffled-up traveller by my side. 

" What ! did you ever feel ashamed of being an Eng- 
lishman ?" 

" Not exactly ; but I've been quite as well treated 
when I have denied being one." 

" But you ought not to have been ; any one who 
denies their country — yes, Sir, denies their country — " 

" Stranger ! don't accuse me of denying my country !" 
— and in a moment I knew there was a Iventuckian 
" around." 

Our hands were soon clasped ; and after he had done 
with his catechist, I begged him to give fuller reasons 
for my own satisfaction. 

" "Why, look here, my friend," said he ; j" if this is 
your first appearance in France, let me give you such 
advice as an old traveller like myself can proffer from 
his own experience. If you would really secure a full 
share of courtesy and attention, particularly in this 
country and Germany, let the inhabitants imagine you 
anything but a John Bull — out with the truth at once — 
and, even now, tell tliem jou're from America. Just 
look at the moroseness and hauteur of your thoroughly 
British traveller, and you will no longer wonder at the 
prejudice which is awakened against him. But if you 



92 WHAT I HEARD 

still doubt, give each personification a fair trial, and 
you will arrive at the same opinion. I have been in 
many parts of the world ; and although I have made a 
number of most agreeable acquaintances who came 
from ' the fast-anchored isle,' I certainly never like to 
be taken for a native of it — and least of all in the em- 
pire we are now passing through." 

Subsequent experience fully confirmed what I now 
heard ; and henceforth I made the best possible use of 
my limited French and German in letting my compan- 
ions and acquaintances know that I came from the 
United States. 

The second day of my sojourn in Kouen, I strolled 
around the suburbs, and witnessed the Boulevards thick- 
ly studded with bazaars, shows, circuses, exhibitions of 
dancing dogs, etc., in honor of some festival which 
would last a week. Thousands were gathered from the 
surrounding country, and now indeed did I feel and 
enjoy the full delight of a traveller amid strange seeneB, 
faces and customs. I entered one of these places of 
amusement, and was congratulating myself on being 
so well able to understand the pantomimic performer?, 
when a man sitting by my side, asked me, 

" Are you not an American ?" 

"Yes! — and I'm so glad to hear you speak my lan- 
guage.'' 



IN EUROPE. 93 

" All ! mon ami, would I had staid there instead of 
coming back here again." 

He said this with such evident sincerity, that I felt a 
sympathy which only heart-spoken words can elicit. 

But he threw off his gloominess, and commenced 
explaining to me the incident of the play ; and as he saw 
how I appreciated his politeness, a smile radiated his 
features, and I too felt a joy in thus contributing to his. 

We walked away together — and as he looked both 
shabby and hungrj-, my heart warmed toward him, as 
he outlined his life's disappointments — and his last 
misstep in returning to a land overburdened with popu- 
lation. 

I left him with a strange doubt whether he would 
have accepted the douceur, my heart told me he de- 
served. 

At the Hotel d'Angleterre, I was so continually hear- 
ing every thing commended as being " good English," 
that at last I had to let fly my " Je enis Americain,'^ 
in self-defence. 

And now did I indeed feel somewhat of a foreigner. 
The white-capped, wooden-shoed damsels of old Nor- 
mandy, and the incomparable cleanliness, tasteful dis- 
play, and neatness of the shops, with the geniality which 
seemed to cliaracterise the intercourse of all parties, all 



94 WHAT I HEARD 

seemed in grateful contrast with former experience. 
The shop-windows continually reminded me of " English 
spoken here," and sometimes this information was cou- 
pled with somewhat ludicrous adjuncts. One of the 
most elaborate which I remember, dispensed with all 
punctuation, as in splendid gilt characters I read — 
" English Spoke Salt Beef." 

I saw many things in Rouen which delighted me and 
its other visiters ; but the most vivid recollection I have 
of what I heard^ was that which interrupted my medita- 
tions before the memorial to Joan of Arc — a full band 
of French military music — and which seemed to sway 
the populace as with one pulsation. 



IN EUROPE. 95 



CHAPTER XVI. 

PARIS. 

It was evening wben I entered tlie gay capital of 
Europe ; and as the numerous lights and easily recog- 
nized edifices of the French metropolis flitted before me, 
I registered my name at the Grand Hotel du Louvre 
with a realizing sense that a great holiday was indeed 
before me. To make the most of my time was now my 
chief anxiety. 

I had a strange presentiment that some evil would 
befal me while here — so early in life had been impressed 
upon me the wickedness of this " God-forsaken City." 
But the first day's perambulations among its cheerful 
faces, its gay shops, its gorgeous palaces, its numberless 
novelties, dispelled the illusion ; and I felt really 
charmed at witnessing the true politeness and afi'ability 
of all ranks and classes — opportunities constantly pre- 
senting themselves to show the French to be not only 



96 WHAT I HEARD 

apparently, but actually consideratej urbane and polite 
— and to me these are no slight recotnmendations in this 
over-frictioned world. 

I walked out to get my passport vised. But the 
" Rue de Beaujon " had been demolished in course of 
those grand improvements which, during the last ten 
years have so changed and beautified the city of Paris. 
I was turning from where the embassy had been, when a 
gentleman told me the locality where that business was 
now conducted. 

" Will Monsieur accept my card ?" 

" With pleasure — here is mine also." 

" Ha ! I thought so ; you're from America." 

" True ; and I want to see all I can before I return." 

We entered into pleasant conversation, in which I 
answered many inquiries concerning Kew York, which 
the gentleman had visited some years before. 

" Is this your first day in Paris ?" 

" Yes ; and as I believe the Hotel des Invalides is in 
this part of the city, should like you to direct me 
thither." 

Taking out his watch, he beckoned to tl^e driver of a 
passing vehicle, and remarking he had time to accom- 
pany me, he motioned me to enter, and then came and 
s4t by my side. 

We crossed the Seine on one of its beautiful bridges. 



IN EUROPE. <^7 

near the Arch of Triumph, and he gave me in full his 
opinion of the third Napoleon ; bot I confined my 
remarks to an opinion of the First. 

Arrived at the gate, he paid the driver, and lifting 
his hat with all the grace imaginable, left me in wonder- 
ment what could have induced a stranger to go to such 
expense and trouble on my account. 

But this incident, which, at the time, seemed so 
remarkable, I subsequently found but a fair indication 
of the general politeness of the people in other parts of 
the empire. 

While at my breakfast at the Grand Hotel du Louvre 
the next morning, I heard gomething which, for a 
moment, poisoned the flavor of the exquisite]cofi'ee I was 
sipping— 

— " It's all over ; the North have caved in ; and even 
Greeley gives up, and admits the hopelessness of further 
contention." 

Surprised that this sad information should have so 
little eflFect on the man's appetite, I soon learned from 
subsequent remarks of his, tliat he obtained this agree- 
able information from the New York Herald. 

It was not long before I had a copy of the paper, and 
read the article which had been quoted. As I subse- 
quently obtained the Tribune, and saw what Greeley 
really did say, I felt indignant at the " false alarm," and 



98 



WHAT I HEARD 



retaliated with renewed appetite on the edibles at the 
next meal time. 

" Did yon notice how delighted when he 

heard that the Sonth were victorious ?" 

" Yes — and yet that man ie a leader of the Demo- 
cratic party," 

As. I mingled with the crowd occupying the cars on 
the way to Yersailles, I heard a lady describing, in my 
own language, the objects of interest as we passed. As 
she observed my intentness on her conversation, she 
asked me if I had ever been there before. 

"Ko — this is my first visit." 

" How strange ! now you can come from London and 
return so easily." 

" Yes ! but I don't happen to live in London." 

" Well, not far ofi", I'll be bound." 

" Farther than you imagine." 

" You're an Englishman." 

" Kot much just now, I'm thinking." 

" Then you're an American ; yes, I believe you are a 
Yankee." 

" You may take your choice of terms, Madam, but I 
do come from that land." 

" How did you escape ? — is the war over ? — have you 
been in any of the battles ?" 

Before I had time to separate, much less answer this 



IN EUROPE. 99 

sharp volley of iliterrogations, the lady returned to her 
cliarge, 

" Tell me now, will the Americans have a king, think 
you, or an emperor after this ?" 

" Well the State I live in, New York, elected a 
King from Jamaica lately ; but I think they would still 
rather have him again than an emperor." 

I found the lady very well informed on almost every 
other than American subjects ; and she was in no way 
reluctant to inform me that she was travelling governess 
to an English family of rank. 

Two or three days later, while devouring with my 
usual aviditity the news in the New York papers left on 
tlie tables in the saloon of the Hotel, I heard a familiar 
voice near me, and looking up, saw my late acerone 
receiving most submissively, general orders from a 
dignified lady who appeared her mistress. I was about 
manifesting some token of recognition, when our eyes 
met, and I beheld such a pitiful yet unmistakable appeal 
for silence^ that I roitrained myself, and she passed from 
the room without her mistress detecting the acquaint- 
ance. An hour after I met her in the ground court yard 
where she hurriedly thanked me for not having spoken, 
as the audacity of conversing with a guest at the same 
hotel with my lady, would inevitably have resulted in 
her ignominious dismissal from her situation. 

The next day news arrived of the capture of Mason 



100 WHAT I HEARD 

and Slidell, and o f course it formed the chief topic of 
conversation, and one said to me, 

" Will you give them up ?" 

" Ko, Sir." 

" Ah ! that will be grand ! Your great war will be 
splendid — magnificique !" 

Leaving Paris, I continued eastward till I reached 
Strasburg. At the hotel where I tariied, I overheard 
two Londoners talking of America : 

" Oh ! the Southerners are the onlj real gentlemen in 
America." 

" So I've 'eard ; but 'ow do you account for it ?" 

*' "Why you see they're so much in the 'abit of send- 
ing their children to AEngland to be Aeducated." 

" Yes ! and the few j^ortherners which do travel I 
think are a mean and stingy set ; they don't drink 'alf 
the wine, or spend their money 'alf as freely as the 
others." 

" "Well, it's because they're taught to hate the Eng- 
lish." 

On my passage down the Ehine, I found myself and 
, a ruddy-looking Englishman the only occupants of the 
cabin of the " Marianne." 

He came up to me, and offering me a cigar, said, 

" Nothing like that for such weather as this." 

Declining his gift in my very best French, he burst 
into laughter : 



IN EUROPE. 101 

"I thought you were a Yankee, and I've seen so 
many I could have sworn to it. But no American 
would refuse such a prinoipe as that." 

" But / have, you see ; and without oflfence, I hope." 

" Oh ! that's jolly ! Otfcnce ? not a bit of it. Take 
a glass of wine ?" 

" Don't be in a hurry — look ! what's the name of that 
castle ?" 

" D it ! you're not an American, after all ! and 

I swear Englishmen don't call car-so\s ' ms-tles.' " 

He proved a very agreeable companion, and accom- 
panied me all the way to Ostend. When we arrived at 
that quaint refuge for English absquatlators, he had so 
won upon my confidence and friendship, that I enjoyed 
his conversation exceedingly. 

We started together to find a warm bath : and after a 
diligent search of over an hour, succeeded, though not 
without difficulty. 

Arriving at Dover in the middle of the night, I was 
glad, to betake myself to the nearest hotel, from which 
I departed by the first train for London in the morning. 
I had heard Americans so much rated for their " filthy 
habits of chewing and smoking," that I was both sur- 
prised and annoyed to experience the general use of the 
narcotic, or an imitation, wherever I went. Many of 
the railway cars in England have conspicuous notices 
prohibiting smoking, or a fine announced as the penalty 



102 WHAT I HEARD 

for the practice ; but I had a dozen opportunities of 
wishing that respect for the comfort of companions, if 
nothing more, would " incline the hearts " of smokers 
" to keep this law." While again deliberating how much 
headache would overcome mj natural politeness, I heard 
a passenger harping on the lawlessness of Americans. 

" The glory of Britain, Sir, is the respect paid to the 
majesty of the law." 

" Why not o-bey that one hanging yonder ?" 
With a look more savage than the growl which ac- 
companied it, he put up his pipe, and I pursued the 
remainder of my journey in comparative comfort. 



IN EUROPE. 103 



CHAPTER XVII. 



KENT THE GARDEN OF ENGLAND RIFLE VOLUNTEERS 

A " SQUIRE " ANSWERED. 



In my former visit to the country of my ancestors, I 
could not help remarking the clearer complexion and 
brighter eyes of the population, than I had seen among 
the inhabitants of other parts of the land. Of course I 
began to feel proud of my genealogy ; and wondering 
whether the family would retain its longevity on Amer- 
ican soil, was reminded that the superior health and 
stamina of Kentish men, and really roseate hues of the 
Kentish lasses, was mainly attributable to the absence 
of coal pits, collieries, factories, and their necessary ad- 
juncts, so disastrous in their effects upon the inhabitants 
of other regions. Certainly I saw bluer skies, whiter 
clouds, and brighter stars in that portion of England 
south of the Great City, than any which had enlivened 



104 WHAT I HEARD 

me since I left Manhattan. 'No wonder, tlien, now that 
I was fairly " on my way home," that I anticipated 
much in tarrying more leisurely and chatting more 
freely with " the old folks at home." 

So I dropped in upon cousins, aunts, uncles, etc. one 
after another, surprised to find how little they knew of 
each other, if more than one round in the ladder of for- 
tune separated their " position." Thus I found some on 
one verge of the wheel of fortune who affected entire 
ignorance of the existence of any family afl&nity else- 
where ; and when some of them who might merchanta- 
bly be termed " middlings," heard that an American 
cousin was at the Hotel, they discussed the pro- 
bability as to whether he had come home to die with 
the inevitable fortune of foreign adventurers, or had 
escaped the dangers of the battle field only to become 
burdensome to their ancestral acres. 

A happy device for securing my own independence, 
and at the same time quieting apprehension on. the part 
of others, occurred to me in commencing my visitations. 
I remembered a box ticket admitted to all parts of the 
house, and acted accordingly. 

One evening I returned to my hotel more than ordina- 
rily tired from a pedestrian excursion to Bodiam Castle. 
Seated comfortably by the fire, my mind naturally 
reverted to the anniversary which had many years 



IN EUROPE. 105 

marked this as a " red letter " day in mj experience. I 
had many kind friends around me, yet this day — my 
Wedding Day — had nevertheless not yet furnished me 
opportunity of celebrating it so heartily as hitherto in- 
variably had been done. Eesolved to do something 
signalizing the day befitting its pleasant memories, I 
rang the bell, and ordered some fireworks for the juve- 
nile portion of my landlord's family. 

Mr. D. himself made his appearance simultaneously 
with the sound of music below. 

" Oh Sir ! the Kifle Yolunteers meet here this evening 
to receive the prizes awarded to their best marksmen ; 
and as there will be a large gathering and an inter- 
esting time, I hope you will meet us at the supper. 
It will give me pleasure if you will allow me to intro- 
duce you." 

" Excuse me from eating, or drinking either — but if 
there's to be music, I'm on hand." 

Noting how this little incident swelled the number 
Df auspicious events beguiling me into the belief that 
I had just now somehow got into the good graces of 
the fairies, I began to wonder how modern military 
evolutions would compare with those I had heard my 
father describe when the inhabitants of that part ot 
7 



106 WHAT I HEARD 

the country were kept " awake o' nights " in fear of 
the descent of Bonaparte. 

In a little while I heard " the glasses rattle on the 
board," and looking over the heads of the listeners 
about tbe door, I espied the placid countenance of 
Washington beaming serenely on the soldiers from the 
far corner of the room. Just then the band responded 
to one of the toasts with an American tune — and in 
an instant I was charged, if not with electricity, with 
something which seemed to me as mucb like patriot- 
ism as any thing I know of. 

I was soon seated by the side of the Chairman, and 
evidently an " object of interest," — probably the only 
stranger in the room. 

" Do be kind enough. Sir, to give us your views on 
the war now raging in America, and the part which 
you think we, as Englishmen, are justified in taking." 

" The most Homoeopathic part you can possibly ima- 
gine — and even that will prove more than the event 
really calls for. Look at yonder American — remem- 
ber tbe sentiments of his Farewell Address — and con- 
fess how England herself has prospered since limiting 
her ' entangling alliances.' " 

I then complimented them on their fine appearance ; 
and referring to my recent rambles among the military 



IN EUROPE. 107 

nation on the other side of the Channel, commended 
the wisdom of the Government which .at length per- 
mitted the yeomanry to bear arms — closing my re- 
marks by proposing as a sentiment, that nations, like 
individuals, had better mind their own business. 

This opinion seemed to agree so well with that en- 
tertained by the company, that they urged me to con- 
tinue my remarks, and they submitted to the penalty of 
hearing — some more of the same sort. 

When the tables were cleared, a crowd gathered 
round me to shake hands. I observed a pompous little 
fellow edging his way toward me, and when near 
enough to be heard, he asked me gravely, 

" How much does Lincoln pay you for coming down 
into this part of the country, agitating for the Korth ?" 

Supposing his compliment a good-humored way of 
quizzing me, I replied with equal gravity, 

" About five thousand dollars." 

The sedateness of my countenance while uttering this 
whopper so completely convinced my interlocutor that I 
was indeed on diplomatic service, that he turned to his 
companions in evident disgust at the venality of the 
Yankees ; and it required a wink from my good-humored 
landlord to open my own eyes to the true " situation." 

Changing my " base " instantly, I longed to annihi- 



108 WHAT I HEARD 

late the little wretpli foi his outrageous insult. So I 
drew myself up to my full height, raised my voice to 
reach heyond. the ring surrounding me, and "blazed 
away " — 

' " !N"o, Sir ! I never saw Mr. Lincoln, and am equally 
certain he never heard of me." 

" What the devil are you doing down in this part of 
the country then ?" 

The crowd pressed closer round us — this was evidently 
the magnate of the town. 

" "Well, as I am at present a paying boarder in this 
house, it is hardly polite for you to be so inquisitive — 
' you, who are so utter a stranger to me,' as one of 
your countrymen once stigmatized myself. However, 
as there are others present who would perhaps like an 
explanation of my appearance at your banquet this eve- 
ning, I have no objection to telling them, if they care to 
hear it." 

" Yes ! yes I who are you, and what are you doing in 
this part of the country ?" 

" Well, gentlemen, in one sense it may be admitted 
hat a traveller for pleasure as I now happen to be, has 
no business here. That, I am happy to say, flourishes 
away out West. I am merely enjoying a holiday — in 
act this is part of my summer vacation. I am a Kew 



IN EUROPE. 109 

York printer ; and this year, instead of recreating my- 
self among the Cattskills, at Newport or • Niagara, have 
taken the notion to extend my trip a little farther East- 
ward, and witness for myself the wonderful perfection 
emigrants tell us is to be found in every thing in ' the 
old country.' This afternoon, for the first time have I 
been permitted to see our family's name on the tomb- 
stones in yonder yard at Sandliurst ; and as the various 
epitaphs on their virtues passed before me, I resolved to 
endeavor to keep our American escutcheon at least as 
bright as its Kentish predecessor. 

" But I am myself a native of England. If your 
crowded table sent me early away among the population 
of the Anglo-Saxon race invigorating another continent 
— invested rae ' with health and prosperity long to live,' 
and kindled a second time desire to revisit my father- 
land, and affectionately greet kindred whom I have not 
yet disgraced — surely you can have no objection to the 

indulg(3uce of such desires And now, on 

my. return to London from the Continent, I tarry a few 
days among my relatives here, who do not seem to re- 
gard me as unwelcome. So, gentlemen, unlike, I am 
sorry to say, many Englishmen who make money in 
America, I feel grateful for her hospitality, and remain 



110 WHAT I HEARD 

loyal to her even when a family quarrel like the present 
sets her enemies in ecstacies. 

" And as I dearly love to travel — particularly among 
those speaking my own language — I linger affectionately 
among these charming scenes where sleep my ancestors, 
taking delight in ' speaking up 'for my adopted country, 
and paying my way as an independent Anglo-American : 
— and that, gentlemen, is what I am doing in this part 
of the country." 



IN EUROPE. Ill 



CHAPTER XYIII. 

THE BALLOT RAILROAD EXPERIENCES AND OPINION. 

The next morning, while indulging my " inveterate 
habit of newspaper reading," I had, from the corner of 
the tap-room where I was seated, abundant opportunity 
of hearing frequent allusion to the " taking down " of 
the Squire on the previous evening. Already had the 
news of his discomfiture reached and gratified many 
more influenced by fear than respect for such dignities; 
and as one after another of the customers put away their 
usual quantum of beer, I enjoyed the difi'erent aspects 
put upon the occurrence by the various visiters. 

" I tell 'ee that Yankee chap must ha' been a sojer, 
and he's down here after recruits, depend on't ; can't 
make me believe a printer could talk military like that, 
less he'd been in the ^army !" 



112 WHAT I HEARD 

" Oil ! but Dick says his marster's devilish cross that 
should introduce a stranger among us 



volunteers, who had the impudence to praise up the 
cussed French before our very eyes !" 

" The Americans overdo everything, seems to me, and 
make themselves ridiculous by going to extremes. Did 
you see the gold piece Davis changed for the gentleman 
— why, I swear ii's four times bigger than a suv'rin, and 
he called it a double eagle !" ' 

" Yes, I saw it, and it was a handsome coin — pity 
they couldn't give it a better name." 

On leaving Ticehurst, on account of its distance from 
a railway station, it became necessary to hire a convey- 
ance. The landlord of another inn than the one where I 
lodged was accustomed to this line of patronage ; and on 
the journey, after repeating some of the fallacies which 
have hitherto been alluded to as they presented them- 
selves during my intercourse with others, alluded to 
voting. 

" I should really like to vote myself, occasionally." 

" Surely you are entitled to vote ?" 

" Yes, if I choose to do it. But you don't catch me 
such a fool again very soon !" 

^' I don't understand you." 



IN EUROPE. 113 



" Why, when I was in I voted against 



and in less than a year he broke up my business." 
" Wlio told him you voted against him ?" 
" Bless your heart ! every one knows how you vote 
here. !N'ow if we had the ballot, or any way to prevent 
candidates revenging themselves on voters, do you sup- 
pose such a chap as that Yankee floored the other night 
at the tavern would be the everlasting God Almighty of 
the place ?" 

The temptation to reveal myself as that identical Yan- 
kee was too powerful to resist, and I heard — myself 
complimented far more than I deserved. 

I was soon seated in a railcar, speeding towards 
Maidstone. Kot so fortunate as usual, an inside seat 
prevented enjoyment of the charming landscape. 

And here I must indulge a slight digression to express 
ray detestation of the general management of passengers 
and their accommodation on British railroads. Bather 
prepossessed favorably than otherwise, the experience of 
a thousand miles' travel thereon satisfies me of their 
general inferiority to those I had been accustomed to in 
the Eastern States. Perhaps my opinion may run 
counter to that generally prevalent; nevertheless I am 
confident my dislike has no origin in prejudice, or lack 
of opportunity for fair trial. 



114 WHAT I HEARD 

I can now readily account for the opposition railroads 
excited upon their introduction, among the " ruling 
classes." Kuthless as the engineer's survey occasionally 
proved to a game-preserve or favorite lawn, it was no- 
thing to the mortification the landed proprietor experi- 
enced while contemplating the degradation of being 
carried along by the same motive-power which was 
conveying Smith the tailor to Jones the carpenter. But 
as the march of improvement in this matter proved irre- 
sistible, it seems they have made the sj^stem as deferen- 
tial to the love of caste as it is possible to devise. 

So they first built their cars very closely resembling 
in external appearance the old-fashioned coaches, with 
curved panels, &c. Then they divided them into small 
sections, arranging the seats crosswise, with such small 
windows at each end, that only the passenger nearest 
them can view the country he is passing through. One 
half the inmates, also, are constantly riding backwards, 
with no more interesting prospect than the faces oppo- 
site. The frequent tunnels which occur, and the dismal 
oil lamps which are provided, do not at all increase the 
cheerfulness of the journey. 

Besides this, the " check " system for baggage I saw 
nothing of. They paste the name of the town you are 
destined for on your trunk, and when that place is 



IN EUROPE, III 

reached, it is left on the platform to be taken away by 
the first bold claimant who presents himself. 

Oh ! the felicities of English railroad travelling " do • 
serve," as Artemas says — " a lecture !" 
, But to return. 

" Splendid country, this, Sir." 

" I don't see it." 

" Here, take my seat." 

" Thank you. How I wish your splendid rails and 
solid road-beds were blessed with comfortable American 
cars." 

" Ah ! I've heard the Americans travel a great deal ; 
but how can their cars, as you call them, be more com- 
fortable than ours ?" 

" They are lighter, the seats all face one way, half the 
passengers have a window to themselves, and the other 
half, owing to the long passage way in the centre, and 
the convenient windows, can enjoy scenery for miles in 
perspective. Besides, they can not only circulate among 
the company, and enjoy society, but in emergency can 
communicate with conductor or engineer by the rope 
running through the entire train." 

" I believe that is the case, for I have a brother who 
has been in Massachusetts, and he thinks railroad trav- 
elling more comfortable there than here." 



116 WHAT I HEARD 

!N"ot content with rigorously dividing the cars into, 
the small compartments spoken of, they extend their 
sorting surveillance to the refreshment arrangements — 
each variety being correspondingly labelled. This time 
I was detected where I had previously passed without 
suspicion. Having never overcome my antipathy to 
soggy pies, cold coffee, and other incidentals in the 
*•' bosom of my boarding house," I invariably patronized 
" first class" tables, whether travelling under that honor 
or not. 

I had just commenced my alimentary enjoyment when 
1 was taken roughly by the arm, turned round, and 
greeted with — 

" 'No you don't ! — ^I seed you — cawn't you read ?" 

This unexpected expulsion gave me new ideas of the 
*' sovereignty of the individual." 

At Maidstone, I occasionally visited the Barracks 
there — and when I heard the band frequently perform 
American tunes, longed for the time when I should see 
the Stars and Stripes in the same company. 

One day, on going to Allington Castle, I was accom- 
panied by an old friend of the family, (who had pre- 
viously introduced me to three persons, pupils of my 
father nearly eighty years ago !) who was strangely 



IN EUROPE. 117 

favorable to the United States, wliile deplorably ignor- 
ant of our actual condition. 

" Oh, you'll soon see how European capitalists will 
laugh at your application for a loan to carry on the 
war." 

" "Well, wait till we ask them." 

" In this respect you must acknowledge the superiori- 
ty of monarchical governments in war times." 

" Yery good for war times, perhaps ; but we prefer 
government suited for times of peace mainly." 

" But you'll have to stop your war for want of money 
before a year is over." 

On my way to London I visited a Government official 
at Purfleet. 

" You'd better make peace in your country before we 
interfere, for our Aavmy is in such ^excellent condition 
as it never was before — and you Yankees will find you 
have no Mexicans to deal with when you provoke John 
Bull." 

" Perhaps not. Don't you wish we might meet some 
powerful nation worthy British warfare — say the Sepoys 
or Chinese, for instance." 



118 WHAT I HEARD 



CHAPTER XIX. 



LONDON AGAIN. 



Again in London, I visited a few localities of peculiar 
personal interest. One of these was a building in Castle 
Street, where I saw in front, " Grammar School — Estab- 
lished 1790." Remembering that this must have been 
the spot where my own " English Elements " com- 
menced, I entered into conversation with a gentleman 
acquainted with the present proprietor. 

" This ar — this war — ^it will soon stop emigration to 
America.' ' 

" Peace will come presently — and there will still be 
plenty of room." 

"I wonder what will become of the thousands of Eng- 
lishmen who live in the United States. Of course the 
Qovcrnment make them fight for it — don't they ?" 



IN EUROPE. 119 

" Not at all. They allow those who choose, to con- 
tinue grumbling ; and others, like myself, to come here 
to do it — which, I candidly own, my friend, appears far 
preferable to doing it at the table of our entertainers." 

" Here's Mr. Marston. This gentleman is from Amer- 
ica, and declares he is going back again next week !" 

" Yes : so just let me look at the old schoolroom where 
I learned to read." 

At the close of my inspection, Mr. M. said, 

" Come down here — I will show you a curious relic of 
the olden time." 

We descended a few steps below the cellar, when he 
pointed out that a recent excavation had revealed a 
Roman bath. 

Another spot I felt curious to revisit was Belle Savage 
Yard on Ludgate Hill. Twenty-nine years before, the 
magic word America had attracted away from the em- 
ployment of a large establishment one of their hardest- 
worked errand boys : and said boy now happened to be 
in turn an employer, with a letter of introduction to an 
eminent firm directly opposite. Accordingly I entered 
the enclosure still famous for its literary commerce. 

On the spot whence formerly radiated " The Casket," 
" The Satirist," &c., now only a few broken walls and a 
heap of rubbish remained. Nearly opposite, however, 
arose a Harper-like looking building, on approaching 



120 WHAT I HEARD 

whicli I heard the familiar sound of a genuine Ameri- 
can Adams Press. 

I presented my letter to one of the firm, was warmly 
welcomed, and invited to inspect the establishment. 
"First visit to England?" 
" ITo : I have been here twice before." 
" Ah ! I notice you spealc remarhably well ! " 
" Indeed ! Perhaps it is because I once worked over 
the way there. But where is that establishment gone ? 
— Cowie & Strange's, I mean . " 

He knew nothing about them, and two others whom 
he questioned appeared equally ignorant. 

This gentleman had recently visited I^ew York, from 
which place he had transferred some of the latest im- 
proved printing presses to his London establishment. 
" How do you like them ?" 
"Yery well." 
" How do others ?" 
He shrugged his shoulders. 

" I should really like to ascertain how they compare 
with those in general use." 

. " Well, the men at continue to distrust 

and disparage them, and I do believe will not give them 
a fair chance." 



IN EUROPE. 131 

" I heard the same opinion about the Hoe Press sent 

lately to ." 

" And I know there was a dead-set threatened against 
that." 

A few days after this conversation, on passing along 
the street, the usnal crowd were gatliered round a shop- 
window where a sewing-machine was in active operation. 
Happening to be in company with a gentleman who had 
frequently expressed contempt for all trans-Atlantic in- 
ventions, I was curious to hear what paternity he would 
claim for this eminently American notion. 

" Ah, yes! that is American, to be sure. But we do 
not want it here. !No, no : we can't find sewing enough 
for the poor women we have to support." 

One of my letters was to a gentleman in the Temple 
Garden. After the usual civilities, he said, 

" So I hear Mr. J has gone to America, seeks 

admission to the Bar there, and I suppose in due time 
you Yankees will make a great man of him, as you gen- 
erally do with the rogues escaping from us." 

" Perhaps so ; but you seldom have a chance to recip- 
rocate our generosity." 

" Now that's insulting, and I did not mean to insult 
you." 

"Nor I you. But I have lately heard so many in- 
8 



122 WHAT I HEARD 

stances of rascality alluded to as American, when I hap- 
pen to know tlieir British parentage, that I cannot help 
occasionally putting in what you lawyers call a re- 
joinder." 

" You are very American for one born in England, as 
this letter informs me. " 

" Yes — and become more so as I hear all our vices 
continually spoken of as ' regular Yankee,' while our 
virtues you so coolly claim as British, because we come 
from your stock." 



IN EUROPE. 123 



CHAPTER XX. 



WHAT I HEARD IN A COAL MINE. 

"While in Birmingliam, it was my good fortune 
to become acquainted with the celebrated engineer 
John Inshaw, Esq. Although this gentleman had 
long been noted for his hospitality to Americans, I 
could hardly have expected so many efforts on his 
part to contribute to my enjoyment. As I had 
expressed some curiosity respecting coal mines, he 
offered to accompany me to one, the superinten- 
dent of which was his personal friend. On the 
way, he cautioned me] to abate my interest; for 
such descents^ were attended not only with more or 
less personal discomfort, but were not entirely free 
from danger. However, as this was reputed one of ^ 
* the best ventilated, in England," he thought he 
could conscientiously recommend it to liis "Ameri- 
can cousin." 



124 WHAT I HEARD 

. So we rode out to tlie " Mountford Mine," some 
seven miles west of tlie citj. My efforts on the 
journey to induce Mr. I. to accompany me in my 
subterranean rambles, had been entirely unsuccess- 
ful ; but when we arrived at the Superintendent's 
house, Mr. Button succeeded, by offering to accom- 
pany us himself. His " baillie," (or under - ground 
overseer,) was accordingly directed to put the extra 
safety coupling on the " cage," while I was taking 
a comprehensive view of " the situation." My 
first peep into the dark orifice called the shaft was 
not prepossessing, and I turned aside to contem- 
plate on my other hand an immense steam engine 
Ik. 

belching forth " the waters under the earth," which 
it had drawn up from the workings. Strength and 
utility — ^not beauty or ornament — were its character- 
istics. The " cage " being now in readiness, we 
stepped within, and in a moment saw the huge 
wheel commence revolving, and felt the air 
rushing past us as we commenced descending. 
Down, down we went, into that gloomy darkness, 
till it seemed absolutely tangible — down, still down, 
with a sense that the " blackness of darkness " 
pressed upon us on all sides, and yet down, down, 
without power ol articulation, — till — oh I happ^ 



IN EUROPE. 125 

change! jolt at last! tlie whirl ceased, the door of 
our cage flew open, and we tottered forth. The 
next moment, a7i open lighted candle was placed in 
my liand. 

" What ! I thouglit only the safety-lamp was used 
in mining." 

" Oh, we uses these sir — no danger." 
As soon as my eyes became somewhat accustomed 
to the blackness which now enveloped us, I looked 
around. Instead of lofty arches and spacious vaults 
what was my horror to find myself in a narrow 
cart track, perhaps a dozen feet square ; but, on 
looking upward, I was yet more amazed to observe 
that the immense weight above was supported only 
by massive timbers, which were regularly placed 
about a foot or two apart — and every few yards 
revealed the pressure on them to be so great as to 
bend and crack them in so many places as to give 
the impression that the whole would come down on 
the first vibration ! 

I had loitered too far behind to express the de- 
sire to abbreviate our tour; and now, as I fancied 
I heard falling water, 1 was unpleasantly reminded 
that the bottom of a canal had recently fallen out 
in this vicinity, and its dire efi'ects on the poor 
fellows who had no time to "stand from under!" 



126 WHAT I HEARD 

when—* whirr-r-r — hang- -boom ! BANG ! sent 



a shower of coal around me — and I, tliinking of 
nothing but '■'■ exj^losion P'' sprang forward with all 
my might in the instinct which suddenly possessed 
me — to die close to my companions f * * * 

We instantly huddled together — Mr. I.'s lips 
quivering and speechless, like my own^when Mr. 
Button calmly inquired, " Do you know what that 
was ?" He saw our alarm, and quickly added, 
" It's only the gradual settling of the earth and 
rocks overhead ; see here," he continued, " how 
much this has sprung since it was last shored " — 
pointing to a coal protuberance which had T)ulged 
up between two side timbers as above described. 
His voice, of 'course, re-assured us, and he further- 
more said we might possibly hear a repetition ere 
leaving the mine. 

We now came upon a rough railway — then a 
horse, or a solitary laborer, and then cars of the 
mineral on the way to the shaft. Tlie road had 
been thus far almost a constant descent, and I was 
about suggesting a return, when Mr. Dutton. pointed 
to a hole about three feet in height, though much 
wider, telling us to choose between crawling through 



IN EUROPE. . 127 

01* reaching the shaft by a longer direction. The 
" baillie'' having already entered it, I was down on 
my knees in a trice, while my " fat friend " ac- 
knowledged that on this occasion my slenderness gave 
me a good advantage over him. A few yards of 
this penance, and we emerged on the other side — 
when we found a cavern nearly round, with about 
fifty miners clustered about the inevitable British beer 
barrel, enjoying their " drink hour." As this curious 
spectacle broke suddenly upon me — these begrimed 
laborers with the candles in their caps- — the out- 
lines of their naked shoulders, and the whites of 
their eyes and teeth glistening in the awful dark- 
ness — here, nearly a quarter of a mile underneath 
populous streets, factories, canals and railroads — to 
come suddenly upon such a sight, completely over- 
came me, and I muttered to myself, " Well, if this 
is not dangerous as well as dirty work, I know not 
wliat is." Low as had been my utterance, it was 
overheard,' and " Hope you'll get our wages riz I" * 
greeted me unexpectedly at my feet. No objec- 
tion was made to my carrying ^off '^a trophy from 
this underground railroad — so I selected a good-sized 
piece of coal, to burn at No. 33, on our next gen- 
eral "Peace Illumination." 



12S WHAT I HEARD 

"Homeward bound" was at last the word, and 
I observed tbe " baillie" had many matters of bus- 
iness to which he called, the attention of his supe- 
rior. This made our journey still somewhat cir- 
cuitous—and at length we entered a side working 
or " drift " recently opened. Again I loitered, and 
carried my candle, in my inexperience, near my 
waist— and from that apparently trivial occurrence, 
how eventful proved the sequel ! Sickened at look- 
ing at the frail support overhead, I cast mj sight 
alternately at those ahead of me, and at the light 
in my hand. As I fancied it was growing duller, 
I watched it closely. Bluer and blacker grew the 
flame! Knowing it indicated foulness of the air, I 
exclaimed, "My candle is going out!" "Turn 
back ! turn back !" shouted both superintendent and 
deputy, and before they reached me, my light died 
out entirely ! In ascending this passage, a ^strata of 
dangerous gas was detected by its reaching my 
candle jfirsf, before my companions had gone far 
enough to find it on a level with their mouths ! 

w ^ ^ ^ ^ 

My friend, the engineer, had formerly enjoyed a 
little raillery at my expense, when he felt jocose, 
about Bull Run, but in the race we all now made 



IN EUROPE. 129 

to the moutli of the pit, I remembered eiLough of 
liis " skedaddling " proficiency to be able to retort 
upon him thereafter with great self-complacency. 

We reached the shaft in safety; and as we com- 
menced the joyous ascent, our hearts rapidly re- 
gained their usual cheerfulness. As we mounted 
higher and yet higher, so continued our spirits to 
expand — until we perceived daylight in the distance, 
I valued, as never before, the inestimable blessing 
of sunshine — and even although what I now expe- 
rienced was the inferior British article, still I ex- 
ultantly basked in its rays, my "Yankee curiosity' 
abundantly satisfied by the result of this most per- 
ilous of all my adventures. 



130 WHAT I HEARD 



CHAPTER X XI. 

EXCITEMENT AT LIYERPOOL — EMBARKMENT UNDER 
DIFFICULTIES. 

"When I revisited Birmingham friends on my way 
homeward, I found they had so over-estimated my good 
nature and ability as not only to rely on my repeating 
my opinions at various social circles, but had also ex- 
pected me to address the public. But although I have 
been in a measure compelled to record more of what I 
said than seems modest in a record of what was heard, 
yet my replies are limited to a mere sufficiency for the 
reader to understand the context. It is therefore only 
necessary to give mere outlines. 

At one of the gatherings above alluded to, a gentle- 
man was present, "vi'ho as an employer, had lost many 
of his hands by emigration. Several of these had revis- 
ited England — of course in improved circumstances. 
^ " How is it," said he to me, " while we hear so much 



IN EUROPE. 131 

about tlie vulgarity and coarseness of the Americans, all 
the Birmingham lads who go out there are so much im- 
proved in manners and appearance when they return ?" 

" You can see for yourself when you make that prom- 
ised visit ; but Korthern mechanics are not the mudsills 
they are represented." 

While obtaining a ticket at the railway station, my 
trunk lay on the platform with the words "New Yoek," 
which a Brooklyn painter had made more prominent 
than my name. 

On resuming its guardianship, I noticed a crowd 
gathered round it, and heard one say, 

" There goes a Yankee home to fight." 

" Yes — and they '11 want every one of them. But 
what a blarsted fool the fellow is to go !" 

I was soon locked up in one of those dreary divisions 
of their devices for travelling ; and as I paced the small 
area allowed me to keep myself warm, I fell into a train 
of thought as my visit to these peculiar people was 
drawing to a close. Kemembering how frequently the 
arrogance of the upper classes had more amused than 
annoyed me, my heart yearned toward that hearty hon- 
esty and candor which so eminently characterise the 
English people. In spite of the apparent harshness 
of some of my criticisms, I felt proud of my connection 
with Shakepeake's countrymen, and grieved at the im- 



132 WHAT I HEARD 

minency of conflict between Nations so identical in 
character. I even indulged a belief that by pro- 
longing my stay, and speaking whenever and wherever 
asked, I could do good — ^by dissipating prejudice, and 
thus contribute toward cementing closer together two 
nations who united might rule the world. But the call 
borne was too imperative for the indulgence of more 
than a momentary enthusiasm, and I re-entered Liver- 
pool a very matter-of-fact individual. 

The town was indeed in a state of intense excitement. 
Orders had been issued prohibiting the exportation of 
arms, saltpetre, &c.,,and "war with America" was the 
one topic of general conversation. My favorite 
"Europa," swarming with troops for Canada, was 
closed against my further enjoyment of her splendid 
luxuries by this fitful flurry, and I was glad to obtain 
passage in another steamer. 

As] we gathered on the landing-stage previous to 
embarkation, how sympathetically did our common ap- 
prehensions make us regard each other ! And how 
sweet was it again to hear our language again with its 
proper pronunciation— poor H no longer placed in all 
sorts of ludicrous positions, nor mercilessly exiled from 
his legitimate heritage. But far above and beyond all 
this, did our eyes adore that starry signal that reminded 
us of "Western skies — that 



IN EUROPE. 133 

" Bright Flag ! at yonder tapering mast." 

Once again fairlj out upon old Ocean, tlie passengers 
soon blended into even more affectionate relationship 
than usual on such occasions, in view of the supposed 
and exaggerated calamities to our beloved country. All 
extremes — of politics, religion, and philosophy — har- 
monized into one grand chord of Americanism ; while 
the bitterest invectives were bestowed on all who had 
contributed to our perplexities by misrepresentation or 
venality. A certain newspaper printed in New York, 
whose inconsistency and bombast was frequently quoted 
as embodying American sentiment, received a large 
share of the indignation : and as one of the passengers 
possessed an intimate knowledge of the private as well 
as public history of its foreign proprietor, which he was 
not at all too timid to impart, he was called on to pre- 
side at a meeting expressive of their detestation ; and 
as the hearty and unanimous " AYE 1" following his 
putting the question on thus branding our National 
Libeller, sounded to me the sweetest, so shall it be the 
last record of "What I Heakd" abroad. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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